We are used to certain "rules" in dress, but sometimes ethnic
(anything not English) will break those rules. The image you showed
looks like a jacket. There were stays with detachable sleeves that
are meant to be an outer garment, up to the middle of the 18thC. For
17thC, there are boned jackets that appear to not need stays
underneath. For stays and a wool jacket, it depends on the structure
and fit of the jacket — does it need a few bones to be smooth? You
may decide to do this after it's made.
The pattern draft someone put on Flickr is lifted from _Corsets
& Crinolines_ by Norah Waugh.
I made one of those. The problem I had was, with the armscyes
so low, the lacing gapped at the bustline due to the pressure of the
armscyes. I made mine with cording, and with stiffer boning (or
boning down the center front, at least) perhaps that would not happen.
-Carol
On Aug 9, 2009, at 10:38 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
Hi, I am going to do an early 17th century woman's middle class
dress, location: Bohemia (today's Czech Republic, east of Germany
if someone doesn't know), time: 1618-1648. I want it to look like
this:
http://link.library.utoronto.ca/hollar/digobject.cfm?
Idno=Hollar_k_1716&query=Hollar_k_1716&size=large&type=browse
I have some questions regarding the bodice and stays. First of all,
I assume I should use stays (I prefer stays to boned bodices).
Then, if I use stays, shall I do some light boning to the bodice as
well? It'll be light wool lined with linen.
I don't really know how shall the stays look like. I have only
found this: http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/
search-the-collection/image.php?
EMUSESSID=bf812423145fbba6ba4d441b7ec2ec13&imageirn=400682&r=51445954
from this era, but I'm not sure about the style...I thought I
should do some traditional type of stays with lacing at the
back...do you have any pictures of other surviving garments
(corsets) from the 1st half of 17th century?
The bodice should be pointed, cut at the waist, probably with tabs,
and with something like princess seams. I think I should keep to
this pattern:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hkoslov/1354051356/in/
set-72157601949667448/
For the stays and bodice, but again, it's a bit too late.
What do you think? Thanks,
Zuzana
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