I made a jacket very similar to the one shown. It's wool, lined with drill (heavy twill-weave cotton -- you could use canvas). I wear no stays under it and it looks just like the illustration shown. If you look closely, you can see the rounded bottom of the bosom under the jacket. You don't get that look with stays.
Years ago, when I asked Janet Arnold about 17th century corsetry for the middle class, she replied that "we just don't know" because there are no extant "middle class" 17th century stays. Kathleen Norvell? -----Original Message----- From: Zuzana Kraemerova <[email protected]> To: h-costume <[email protected]> Sent: Sun, Aug 9, 2009 10:38 am Subject: [h-cost] early 17th century stays and bodice Hi, I am going to do an early 17th century woman's middle class dress, location: Bohemia (today's Czech Republic, east of Germany if someone doesn't know), time: 1618-1648. I want it to look like this: http://link.library.utoronto.ca/hollar/digobject.cfm?Idno=Hollar_k_1716&query=Hollar_k_1716&size=large&type=browse I have some questions regarding the bodice and stays. First of all, I assume I should use stays (I prefer stays to boned bodices). Then, if I use stays, shall I do some light boning to the bodice as well? It'll be light wool lined with linen. I don't really know how shall the stays look like. I have only found this: http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/image.php?EMUSESSID=bf812423145fbba6ba4d441b7ec2ec13&imageirn=400682&r=51445954 from this era, but I'm not sure about the style...I thought I should do some traditional type of stays with lacing at the back...do you have any pictures of other surviving garments (corsets) from the 1st half of 17th century? The bodice should be pointed, cut at the waist, probably with tabs, and with something like princess seams. I think I should keep to this pattern: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hkoslov/1354051356/in/set-72157601949667448/ For the stays and bodice, but again, it's a bit too late. What do you think? Thanks, Zuzana _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
