If I understand correctly, when you finish, you have an oval, not a circle
for a neck hole. Therefore, make a flat OVAL shaped piece of embroidery. It
should then lie flat on your gown. 
Try with paper first to get the right shape.
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 8:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] A tailoring question


I have a conundrum and I was hoping someone (or multiple someones) could
offer some advice on solving it.

I do 13th century costuming, which means rectangular body panels, and I've
started doing embroidered trim for them, so far just collar and cuff
embroidery. This gets done separately and then sewn to the garment, which is
not a problem for the Consort's tunics as he used to be a swimmer and has
lovely straight shoulders.

This is the sort of embroidery I am talking about--a circle but not the
entire keyhole: http://img193.imageshack.us/i/dsc6499k.jpg/ This is the
Consort's outfit, which you will notice lies nice and flat when you arrange
it to photograph it (or to attach the finished embroidery). I use the
template for the keyhole neckline placket for the proper sizing.

But apparently I have to be special. My shoulders slope pretty
dramatically--I have lovely Victorian champagne-bottle shoulders--which
means that to fit smoothly my gowns get a little more tailoring. 
Specifically, I sew the two body panels together straight, do the neckline
with a keyhole facing and then re-cut the panels (starting from the seam on
the neck facing) down at an angle out to the point of the shoulder. The
result is that it drops the point of the shoulder down about
1 1/2", but then when it comes time to attach the  embroidery to the gown
there is more embroidery than there is gown and it won't lie flat.

I am a mediocre seamstress at best. I can handle straight lines pretty well,
and I can follow a printed pattern, but I have no idea how to do
sophisticated tailoring. So I have come to ask if there is another way to
tailor the shoulders so that everything will lie nice and flat for the
embroidery, or if it would be better to do something different with the
embroidery.


Many thanks,

Jen/pixel/Margaret
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