Just a note-- most of the dummy suggestions given so far would be harmful to 
your 200 year old garments. Perfectly fine for short term display of modern 
stuff, but really not a good idea for clothing of historical merit. Please, 
please don't use them! I don't know how much you know about display, so please 
forgive me if I'm saying obvious things. And I'm not trying to stomp on 
anyone's suggestions or anything, but Ive been making museum-grade mannequins 
for over ten years and I've had to learn about this stuff! There's a lot to 
keep in mind and protecting your garment is as important as displaying it with 
the right silhouette, if not more so.

Plastic forms from stores are likely questionable-- no idea what kind of 
plastic is involved, and are likely the wrong shape in any case and could have 
hard, sharp edges.
Inflatable forms have sharp seams (bad) and would need padding out for 
protection.
Duct tape is scary both because of the plastic that carries the adhesive and of 
course the adhesive itself.

What you want are materials that won't outgas, like ethafoam (a kind of closed 
cell, carveable, chemically inert foam made by the company 3M). Styrofoam is 
actually safe but crumbly, you'd need to cover it in any case and it might not 
be structural enough. Urethane foams are a bad idea-- they outgas. You can use 
acid free mat board or museum grade plastic corrugated board to build up a form 
as well, again the key is acid-free and inert. No matter what rigid core you 
use for structural integrity and strength, your form will need to be padded so 
nothing rigid or sharp comes in contact with your textile, and you want padding 
materials that do not have starches in them (attract insects). Poly batting is 
good, so is needle-punched cotton. Polarfleece is great (use white though). You 
want to avoid nylon (polyester is safe), and anything that is dyed should be 
tested first to make sure dyes won't rub off on your historic garment. No 
matter what kind of dummy you wind up with, you a!
 lways want a barrier between the dummy and the garment, something like 
stockinette. And you want the dummy to be fully supportive of the specific 
shape of your garment yet just a teensy bit too small so that no seams get 
strained. You want to be absolutely sure that the shoulders are not too broad 
for the garment-- modern forms tend to have this flaw, modern store mannequins 
are made to our modern aesthetic, which is much more built up and sporty than 
historic clothes can handle. And exposed wood should be sealed to prevent 
outgassing of acids (don't use polyurethane, paint is safer).

Hope that helps,

Astrida




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