The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments
has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been
not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage
edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side.  During this era
seam allowances are usually not pressed open. 

The seam allowances on the bodice - side seams and shoulder seams - are
usually pressed toward the back; skirt seams can go in either direction.
Run-and-fell seams are very common on undergarments but very unusual on
dresses. 

Regards,
Carolann Schmitt
[email protected]
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011


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