The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments
has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been
not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage
edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era
seam allowances are usually not pressed open.
This is what I've seen on actual garments. All I would add is, most skirts in
mid 19th century are straight panels sewn selvage to selvage. The selvage edge
is by far the most common thing I've seen. And on almost every one, the
selvages have been clipped... a little diagonal snip every 6 to 8 inches maybe.
Why? This keeps the selvage from drawing up and crinkling the seam. The snips
are on the bias so they won't fray so much. Seam allowances are always tiny too.
These days, selvage to selvage can be a little harder to do since most fabric
now is 45" wide whereas back then it might be 36" or 22" or even 18". But 3 45"
wide panels is about 4 yards and a good hem yardage. However in reality hems
could be 31/2 yards wide, or just to get proportions right, 4 yards may be too
much or not enough and some cutting off of selvages must be done to get seams
and yardages to work out.
I remember an 1840's gown in a silk that frayed easily had the back panels
selvage to selvage, but the front panel was narrower and had no selvage edges.
Those seams had seam allowances hand whipped overcast together as one.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lists <[email protected]>
To: 'Historical Costume' <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, Jul 1, 2010 8:24 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments
has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been
not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage
edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era
seam allowances are usually not pressed open.
The seam allowances on the bodice - side seams and shoulder seams - are
usually pressed toward the back; skirt seams can go in either direction.
Run-and-fell seams are very common on undergarments but very unusual on
dresses.
Regards,
Carolann Schmitt
[email protected]
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
[email protected]
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
[email protected]
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
