Will this help? Durer/self-portraits http://tinyurl.com/2dlrjx3
http://tinyurl.com/2f37qck Also: large pic. detail of your pic. http://tinyurl.com/383wj6d more pics. from the period http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/men/VenMenGall1.htm De -----Original Message----- I am trying to recreate a young Venetian man's costume of roughly 1495-1500. I am looking at a lot of Carpaccio paintings -- I especially like Healing of the Possessed Man at the Rialto Bridge (http://www.vittorecarpaccio.org/The-Healing-of-the-Madman-c.-1496-large.htm l) because I like the detail of the shirts and zupons worn by the gondoliers. This detail from The Arrival of the English Ambassadors is useful for seeing noblemen, who have on (roughly) the same shirt and zupon layer, and then another layer over that. (http://www.1st-art-gallery.com/Vittore-Carpaccio/The-Arrival-Of-The-English -Ambassadors,-Detail,-From-The-St.-Ursula-Cycle,-1498-%28detail%29.html). I've made a first pass at recreating the zupon, and am satisfied with it. But I can't get to contemplating the outer layer, because I can't even figure out that shirt. It has got to be huge, to have so much fabric puffing out at the neck and sleeves. Stella Mary Newton, in The Dress of the Venetians 1495-1525, describes a publication from 1506 forbidding “shirts taking six braza of linen each to make (1 braza = c. 1 yd)” which was issued because this “evil and damnable custom” had been adopted by the young men in the city. So it was puffy, and took a lot of linen. But how was it shaped? Was all the fullness in the front, given that the gondoliers clothes look trim and fitted on the backs? What was the neckline like? How did it slip over the head and close, when the only traces in portraiture I can find of the neck show a single unbroken, unfolded edge of white? (See, for example, this portait, http://www.vittorecarpaccio.org/Portrait-of-an-Unknown-Man-with-Red-Beret-14 90-93.html, or some by Giovanni Bellini.) I have a guess that those many tiny folds may have been secured by rows of smocking stitches at the collar, but I have no evidence to support this theory. Has anyone attempted to recreate this? Know of other sources I should peruse? (The images I cited are available larger and better at Web Gallery of Art -- I just can't link to them there.) Many thanks, Challe _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
