The underbodice or lining was custom fitted and the outer fabric overlaid 
("upholstered"). Comments on construction can be found in Godey's and ?Peterson 
re this method.? Two of the dresses I had in my collection for the period bare 
this out: 1) to save on the outer fabric, especially when trying to control 
plaids and stripes and 2) prevent extra buldging.? One will also find some 
light padding in the underarm area for?'filling out' for the jeurne fils, or 
less endowed'
?-----Original Message-----
From: <[email protected]>
Sent 6/26/2011 1:58:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1840s question
The bodices seem to all be
quilted or very fitted for each lady.
They are pleated or gathered to a tight fitting lining up to the bust area and 
then the pleats release. Bodices in this period are often boned, certainly down 
the CF (keeps the point down) but also at the sides and inbetween.
A friend who collects period gowns has several with major boning all over. 
Thick, like 1/4" thick, whalebone. This is all worn with a corset.
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