Hi, 

I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in an 1849 
fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's part of the 
"Year in Fashion: 1949" collection, http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/  . 
It's   the March 1849   Fashion Plate : Lady with Children .) 



I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not 
very knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping someone with 
expertise can give me a clue or two or three .   



The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the typical 
shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as 
cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while still large in 
circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face, which seems 
consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year that I've seen 
had a straight top line rather than a break between the caul and brim. A ribbon 
trims the hat, more or less where the caul would turn into the brim if they 
were not continuous. 



So far so good. 



The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from around the 
same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the bottom of the 
caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim. 



Here are my questions: 

1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these other 
bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the outside of 
the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What would it be made of on a 
straw hat? 



2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel trim on the 
visible side. Would there have been the same  trim on both sides of the head ? 
Or just on one side? 



3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the brim of the 
bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable women still wear 
caps under their bonnets in '49? 

4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would those have 
been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or asymmetrically? 



Thank you for any thoughts you might share! 

Best, 

Lauren 



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