Oh, wow! Thank you SO much, this is incredibly helpful! Thank you especially for the Blackstone's; I didn't know they were online. Best, Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net
On Jul 27, 2012, at 6:30 PM, Beth Chamberlain wrote: > I can't see the plate but... > > By '49 bonnets are indeed receding and not hiding the face so much are > earlier ones. By the end of the year fashion plates are occasionally showing > them opening up around the face too. Most fashion plates do still show a > slight tip forward. The back hair being dressed high on the head > necessitates/causes that forward tilt. Bavolets tended to be fairly short. > They are constructed from just two pieces (in some straws that's more > conceptual than literal) a tip and a brim, there is no shaping seam anyplace > on the brim though on a few straws I have looked at there is just a bit of > shaping @ where is would hit the top of the head. The Blackstone's from '49 > has a bunch of plates which show bonnets really well, > http://books.google.com/books?id=uD4FAAAAQAAJ (plates are all the way to the > back). And both the MFA and Met have some nice bonnets, two to start off - > http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/bonnet-119800, and > http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/8010! 8048?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=bonnet&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Straw&pos=9. > > Hope that helps some > Beth > > "A library is not a luxury but one of the necessities of life" Henry Ward > Beecher > http://bookworm1860.blogspot.com/ > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: <lauren.wal...@comcast.net> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> > Subject: [h-cost] PS: Oops: Re: 1849 millinery questions > > >> >> >> It might have been this fashion plate instead: >> >> >> >> >> >> Fashion Plate: Lady & Young Boys >> >> >> >> She's in a plaid gown with a row of passementerie tassles down the front of >> the skirt. Lady & Young Boys >> >> >> >> She's in a plaid gown with a row of passementerie tassles down the front of >> the skirt. >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> >> From: "lauren walker" <lauren.wal...@comcast.net> >> To: "Historical Costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> >> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 4:55:44 PM >> Subject: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions >> >> >> >> Hi, >> >> I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in an 1849 >> fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's part of >> the "Year in Fashion: 1949" collection, http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/ >> . It's the March 1849 Fashion Plate : Lady with Children .) >> >> >> >> I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not very >> knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping someone with >> expertise can give me a clue or two or three . >> >> >> >> The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the typical >> shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as >> cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while still large >> in circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face, which >> seems consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year that >> I've seen had a straight top line rather than a break between the caul and >> brim. A ribbon trims the hat, more or less where the caul would turn into >> the brim if they were not continuous. >> >> >> >> So far so good. >> >> >> >> The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from around >> the same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the bottom of >> the caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim. >> >> >> >> Here are my questions: >> >> 1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these other >> bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the outside >> of the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What would it be made >> of on a straw hat? >> >> >> >> 2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel trim on >> the visible side. Would there have been the same trim on both sides of the >> head ? Or just on one side? >> >> >> >> 3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the brim of the >> bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable women still wear >> caps under their bonnets in '49? >> >> 4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would those have >> been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or asymmetrically? >> >> >> >> Thank you for any thoughts you might share! >> >> Best, >> >> Lauren >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >> _______________________________________________ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
