Greetings again,

I have made this garment, in part from the TT book, along with a style change 
based on a different effigy image that Ninya had posted on the EC group I 
mentioned in my other reply. My outfit and a link to my dress diary can be seen 
in my web site here: http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/Embroideress/index.html

Jane the fool, while working for a royal person, is still not a royal nor noble 
herself. She will be wearing finer fabrics than a wealthy merchant or lesser 
gentlewoman simply because she is receiving her livery fabrics from the royal 
wardrobe, but still has to represent her station in the cut and style of her 
garments, and amount of fabric given. The styles of the fitted English gown 
will be similar, but note the differences in the sleeves, and the partlet has 
been dropped as a separate garment, and is instead part of the body of the 
fitted gown of the later 1560s.

A nice silk taffeta will work just fine for the rank you are aiming for, if a 
wool damask is not found. You can also use a cotton velvet/een, or a wool 
satin. I used a wool broadcloth that was part cashmere but it doesn't have the 
visual impact, looking very much like basic wool. I'd love to find a wool 
damask in my area for a someday gown. You will need to flatline/line the silk 
taffeta as it just does not have the right drape otherwise, not that the gown 
needs much drape. The bodice may need some interlining, but just enough to keep 
the shoulder to bust area fairly smooth.

The kirtle can be wool or silk, or even a nice blend of both if you can find a 
wool/silk blend. Having some body to the skirt will be nice, and interlining 
the bodice for support will be very helpful. On my kirtle I needed some extra 
support, so I tried a hemp cord boning which kinda worked, and I am still 
tweaking with as my weight shifted.

I also added a row of corded welting to my kirtle skirts, which has given it a 
little extra stiffness around the feet area so it doesn't wrap around my legs 
when I walk. One or two rows is all that is needed, and while it takes a bit 
more work it can be very worth it, especially if no farthingale is desired.

I hope that helps you and your Baroness,

Kimiko
known in the society as Joan Silvertoppe


On Aug 17, 2012, at 11:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:

> I am going to make the outfit on page 79, which is described as "Fitted 
> English gown with plain sleeves,". Which is 
<snip for length>



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