So Bill, did you use a trash can swamp cooler (ise 35 gal trash can with
holes in it and swamp cooler fan on top) or something more fancy...

Also, was is solar?  My first swamp cooler last year had a
solar submergable fountain in the bottom, which sprayed the water onto the
cooler mats inside the trash can when the sun was up.  We also used a bank
of four solar powered computer fans, they didn't seem to main the slight
moisture in the duct. We just put them in line to a 4 inch flexible duct
pipe ( like for a dryer vent)   It turned itself on when the sun came up and
cooled our entire monkey hut shade structure.  Everyone loved hanging out in
the cool moist breeze.

Unfortunately it was so cold most of the time, we didnt really need it, but
the a=dded humidity DID make a huge impact on the comfort of our tent /
shade structure.





On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 1:15 PM, Bill Wiltschko <[email protected]> wrote:

> I have taken my hexayurt to the playa for 3 years, and the door has evolved
> over that time, in two phases.  First note that my walls are 6 ft tall and
> the door itself 5 ft tall.****
>
> ** **
>
> Phase one:****
>
> I cut the Thermax door assembly panel so that a 6” sill was under the door,
> and I bolted a thin plywood reinforcement over the inside of the sill to
> prevent “oops” stumbles over the threshold.  Reinforcing was needed.  In
> addition, the sill provided a solid area to tape the ground tarp to the
> Thermax door assembly so that the whole hexayurt was completely sealed.
> However, latching the door put a strain on the portion of panel under the
> latch mechanism.  In addition, when I added a swamp cooler and exhaust fan
> (creates negative or positive air pressure), I found the latch inadequate.
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> Phase two:****
>
> I cut a piece of plywood the same size as the existing Thermax panel door
> assembly, and used the Thermax panel to insulate the new plywood door.  In
> other words, I kept the 6” sill, area to tape the ground tarp, and
> reinforcement against my clumsiness.  The latch mechanism is anchored to the
> plywood instead of the Thermax, and is pretty much bomb-proof.  At BM 2010,
> it handled any combination of swamp cooler and exhaust fan settings (and
> wind) with aplomb.****
>
> ** **
>
> Bill****
>
> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
> Behalf Of *Keith Brown
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 25, 2011 7:58 PM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: [hexayurt] Door****
>
> ** **
>
> I did not leave a connection at the bottom.  Instead, on the playa, I put
> the door about 12" away from one corner (handle side), and put a piece of
> rebar into the ground at the hinge side to support it.  However this summer
> I'm putting a 5-6' piece of sill-iron (from my stage crew days) across the
> base of the opening to keep the door from spreading.  It will be integrated
> into the bottom edge taping.  Sill iron is about 1/8" thick by about 7/8"
> wide.
>
> -Oswego****
>
> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Milt Fisher <[email protected]> wrote:
> ****
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone leaves a 2-3" sill at the bottom of the door in
> an attempt to not weaken that panel by cutting the door all the way through
> the edge.  Is it worth the trouble?****
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks,****
>
> ** **
>
> Milt****
>
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