Thank you very much, everybody.

Not only do I have the numbers I need, but I also understand now how
to derive them. (Thanks, Phil.)

Did do a scaled cardboard model of this last Spring. Wouldn't hurt to
pull that back out if I haven't completely destroyed it by now in
careless storage.

Saw a misuse of term in my initial note. I referred to a 64' diameter
when I should have said circumference.

Also saw a misassumption on my part: From something I had read I was
of the impression that the roof pitch on the standard hexayurt (the
hexagonal one) was 30 degrees. Now am understanding (I think) from
Phil that it is 60 degrees. (Did I understand that correctly?) And
that neither of my octagonal roof models will achieve that steep of
pitch? I need a *steeper* pitch to help with shedding snow and
distributing weight.

Phil: I will be using a foam glue and flashing instead of tape, inside
and out on all seams and will experiment with using bolts and washers
on it. Will be gluing the butted-together faces of all joints. And
then "taping" with flashing and emulsified asphalt; then drilling and
bolting (possibly overkill) through the flashing. And am planning an
airplane-cable tension ring around the top of the walls.

Biggest curiosities are whether the foamboard walls will have the
compressive strength to handle the weight of a snowload and whether
the roof panels -- in tension -- will have the strength to withstand
it.

If this survives the winter, will be reinforcing it and pouring
permanent asphalt-stabilized papercrete walls in slipforms inside and
out, come summer, getting the wall thickness to about 10" and adding
substantially to the R-value. Will also be reinforcing and thickening
the roof.

Best,
ken



On Jan 4, 12:01 pm, Ray Kornele <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, Jan 3, 2012 at 9:29 PM, kenwinston caine <
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [email protected]> wrote:
> > I'm wanting to toss up a quick experimental building to test its ability
> > to withstand winter snowload and winter-spring winds.
>
> > This is BASED ON the Hexayurt but is not a hex, rather an octo. And that's
> > where I need help.
>
> > I will be using 4'x8'x2" foam panels. Walls will be eight feet tall and
> > eight feet wide. Eight of them connected in an octagon.
>
> > Roof panels will be cut diagonally from 8  foam panels of 4'x12'x2".
> > (Specially fabricated.)  (Or, alternately  of 4'x16'x2" panels. See final
> > question below.)
>
> > My questions:
>
> > 1. What angles will I need to cut at the corners of each wall so they
> > butt together perfectly?
>
> Mitered joints, 22.5⁰ Butted joints 45⁰
>
> > 2. What angles will I need to cut along the lengths of the roof diagonals
> > so they fit together properly?
>
> > 3. What angle will I need to cut along the width of the roof panels where
> > they butt together with the tops of the walls so they fit flush?
>
> Length? Bevel 13⁰.
>
>
>
> > Since this is a tension structure, I need to get those angles right.
> > Can someone who really understands this math tell me what those angles
> > should be?
>
> > Final question:  Will 12-foot-long roof panels give me a greater than
> > 30-degree angle roof pitch when I have a 64-feet-diameter structure?
>
> Using the Octagon, 8' per side, the 12' panels will give you a 36⁰24' pitch
> angle. Cutting the edges at this angle will make them lie flat on top of
> the side panels.
>
> > If not, what would  the pitch be if I use16-foot-long panels? And, if I do
> > that, what angles would I need to cut on their outside edges so they all
> > fit flush together properly and fit flush against the tops of
> > the walls?
>
>  The 16' panels would give 53⁰ pithc.
>
>
>
> > Very grateful for the help.
>
> > Hoping to put this up within two weeks if we continue to have 50-
> > degree days. Need the math calculations ASAP so can pick up the right
> > quantity of materials and begin cutting.
>
> > Best,
> > kwc
>
> KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

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