Oh, Tyvek *tape* is not made out of Tyvek material, it's just a tape with Tyvek logo that's really really sticky and strong - it's made by a huge Canadian outfit for Tyvek I believe (at least I tracked it down to those guys and they seem to sell it in red color under their brand name in Canadian Home Depot :)). They claim to use acrylic-based adhesive.
It's really good at high temps and it sticks to Reflectix which seems to be basically a thick sheet of polyethylene, so not much works there. Someday I'll figure out how to combine this with hexayurts :) Vladimir On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:55 AM, Charlie Staley <[email protected]>wrote: > The tape is definitely not a Tyvek clone. Tyvec is a non-woven material, > fibers that are shot out into layers, then heat laminated into sheets. I'm > not sure what the base material. > This tape is a very thick film (for a tape), though all of the > documentation says "proprietary". The adhesive is urethane based, I > believe. It's definitely gooey. So it seals around nails, when they are > driven through. > > Anyway, I see what you mean about staggering. I could have set up a > preferential path for rupture. Hopefully the tape adds back some strength, > and I'll make sure that the top edge is well taped, so no flexure initiates > up there. > > > On Sunday, August 18, 2013 2:04:12 AM UTC-5, Charlie Staley wrote: >> >> I wanted to have fun with my build. I just finished my first H13, the >> semi-finished sub structures. Hopefully it goes together. >> I have been using some 3M flashing tape. A little stretchier than I >> anticipated, but extremely aggressive tack, and good strength. But some >> wrinkly joints, particularly with a lone builder. >> >> >> Anyway, I ripped some colored acrylic sheets to 1 inch wide. Then made >> a cutting jig to the size of the sheet edges to run my blade along. >> Use a propane torch to smooth the cut acrylic edges. This doesn't take >> long. I torched the edges in just as much time as it took to cut them. >> You will see the rough surface turn glassy, and you're done. The acrylic >> will warp with the heat, but mostly settles back down to flat. >> This allows the acrylic to pass the light through more easily. >> >> I cut my slots with the jig, then used the jig (it was plywood, 1/4 inch, >> same thickness as the acrylic) to force out the cut slot. >> Slipped the acrylic in, then applied crystal clear packing tape. Many >> brands available. Most are UV tolerant for packages that may be exposed to >> weather. >> >> By day, some cool colored lights. By night, leave the lantern blinking, >> and the yurt calls you home..... >> >> I taped both sides. >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
