DV Rogers:

Nice idea for hardening exterior.

Bought a big compressor six years ago thinking I might do that -- or spray
papercrete onto a form, instead of using polyiso. But found thick, used
polyiso this last winter.

Once I acquired the polyiso and was in the winter-dreaming stage, had
planned to attach burlap to the exterior and cement fill/coat that,
troweling it on, rather than spraying. Realized early summer that once the
monsoon season started to break up a bit here, I wouldn't have enough dry,
outdoor working days available to do that this year before winter sets in.
So am opting instead for "poor man's fiberglass" on the exterior. That will
protect it through its first winter (and beyond). Suppose that when that
starts to fail (assuming that the building has withstood northern New
Mexico snows and spring windstorms and has survived not having a proper
foundation), I could ferrocement, or stucco it then. Poor Man's Fiberglass
exterior walls should hold for at least seven years before needing
attention. The roof? Probably not. Is going to need some true roof coating
promptly. And I've already invested in and acquired almost 20 gallons of
"oops" paints and coatings for doing "poor man's fiberglass." Don't have
the money to switch to a different coating now, this fall.



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On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 9:04 AM, <hexayurt@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> hexayurt@googlegroups.com
> <https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email#!forum/hexayurt/topics>
>  Google
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>
>    - Story of my Liquid Nails fail, with photos
>    <#m_3566034993649397306_group_thread_0> - 3 Updates
>
> Story of my Liquid Nails fail, with photos
> <http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt/t/78959dae5909313a?utm_source=digest&utm_medium=email>
> ken winston caine <ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com>: Aug 26 09:18AM -0700
>
> Hunter:
>
> The "Fail" shown in the photos was with an unevenly broken polyiso board
> with quite ragged faces along the break. The successful followup test was
> done with clean-cut, smooth faces. That really does make a difference.
> But,
> still, you MUST clamp the repair, I have found.
>
> Unfortunately, I have quite a few small, ragged breaks that need to be
> repaired in my 40-some sheets of used polyiso. Continuing to work with
> Liquid Nails on those with less than ideal results. Liquid Nails works
> well
> on cleanly cut, smooth faces and spreads thinly with a putty knife (after
> laying out your zig-zag pattern of Liquid Nails).
>
> But, as mentioned in the "Fail" experiment, Liquid Nails does not "grab"
> and hold pieces together like a tacky adhesive would. You must apply the
> stuff to one surface -- spread it if you choose -- attach the pieces
> tightly and clamp them in place for 24 hours.
>
> UNRELATED CORRECTION: In the updated "success" test with Liquid Nails I
> said I would need to build 30-degree angle braces for clamping roof-cone
> pieces and (TYPO) 30-degree angle braces for clamping wall sections. It
> was
> supposed to say 60-degree angle braces for the wall sections.
>
>
> "D.V.Rogers" <d...@allshookup.org>: Aug 27 12:06PM +1000
>
> If your project is permament why not go Ferrocrete?
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrocement
> http://ferrocement.com/
>
> You need the following;
> Mortar Sprayer Oregon - http://www.mortarsprayer.com/ (you can also hand
> trowel like stucco)
> Permalath (BASF) - www.permalath.basf.com/‎ (or Chicken Wire)
>
> MIX: Three Sand to one Cement -3:1 Ratio
>
> *Portland Lime Cement Mix + Fibreglas Lathe Skin = 20year+ Hexayurt
>
> /dvr
>
> On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 2:18 AM, ken winston caine <
> "Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project)" <hexay...@gmail.com>: Aug 27
> 10:33AM
>
> You might want to look at Gorilla Glue too. It foams up so it pushes into
> contours of the surface for maximum grip. Very useful. I suspect it's
> pretty much like liquid nails in other characteristics.
>
> V>
>
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