--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > The steps to tuning properly are to tune the string to the desired > note > (probably G in your case). Then with the octave key tangent 90 > degrees to the > string (that would be key 7 from the head of the instrument with the > tangent > hitting the string straight on) check the tuning for the octave. If > the note is > dead on tune the rest of the tangents according to the note. If the > octave > note is off adjust the nut and retune the open string then check the > octave > again. Repeat as necessary. Remember to push on the string about the > same > strength that you would during play during tuning.
I would recommend tuning the drones to the tuner, tuning the chanter to the drone and then tuning the tangents against the drone. It is probably best to try it by ear, tuning them by triads (after Simon). (Simon Wascher (sp?) delinated the tangent tuning method some time back, probably in the archives, you will have to split the difference on 2 notes, but they not usually crucial in either key.) Graham's Tables are good if you can't hear it, but it is far preferable to train your ear to hear it. > > tangents from. Note: some kits and instruments don't have a nut (no > jokes Roy). Thank you for your faith , Scott, but I must admit that I can't think of anything funny to say about sliding nuts...(sigh). The nut is like a bridge that the string passes over to stop the string vibration on the end near the tuners. A feature of HGs is that the nuts rest on a shelf and can be adjusted. by sliding them. This is to get the octave exactly on tune under the Octave tangent. The only thing similar that springs to mind is the compensatable Bridge sections on some electric Guitars, I can't think of anything funny to say about that either. This will make a lot more sense when you instrument arrives & hopefully I will have some new jokes by then. Later, Roy
