email me personally at [EMAIL PROTECTED] I will give you a phone number and we can see what we can work out.
Chris Nogy *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** On 1/31/2007 at 11:00 AM Solberg, Bennett J LCDR NMIMC wrote: >Chris, >Thank you very much for your generous offer. What would be a good way to >contact you about my project and I could get the wood from you. All I have >around here is Home Depot and I don't think a 2x4 is what I want to use for >my first try. > >Thanks >Bennett > >LCDR Bennett Solberg, PhD, FACHE >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of >Chris Nogy >Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 10:30 AM >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: [HG] Building question > >I am hard pressed to see pieces other than a peghead that would require >lumber more than standard 4/4 or 8/4 dimension, which should be readily >available at most places that sell lumber. In the US, Woodcraft stores >have >a pretty good selection, and they are in lots of major cities. Also a >supply that is often ignored is hardwood flooring companies. > >But the key to laminating is and has always been to keep voids from forming >in the laminates. Use a thickness sander if you have one, or make certain >that your planer is set up well (planers are notorious for leaving less >than >ideal mating surfaces. If you have to use a large hand jointer plane to >make sure your mating surfaces are perfect. I use water-thinned aliaphatic >(white carpenters, like Titebond, not white craft like Elmers) and prime >both surfaces with a thin coat, then when it is dry, I sand them level and >apply another coat of thinned glue, and glamp with call blocks working from >the center of the piece to the outside. Good clamping pressure and clamp >distribution is critical. > >The reason for this is that vibrations can break down glue joints, and >where >there is a void there is usually some flex in one or the other piece that >has held them apart, an active force working in the laminate. Vibration >from an instrument can start in one of these voids or pockets, and destroy >the glue joint from inside. You can end up with buzzes and strange >vibrational dynamics if you don't have a good, void free joint. > >You can, and I also suggest if you have access to it, use hide glue to make >your joint - treat it the same way, prime the wood surfaces with a thin >layer, then activate it with a hot, wet cloth, add a little more glue, and >clamp from the inside out. Don't use the brown 'hide' glue in a bottle, >cook up your own, you can order it from many places. Hide glue makes a >strong joint, and it helps to dampen the vibration effects in the wood >joints, because of the thin bond line, the deep penetration, and the >flexibility of the material. There is a reason why hide glue is so revered >in instrument making - it doesn't get in the way of sound like other glues >do. > >But in all honesty, you should try to find single pieces of wood. If you >can tell me what you need, I can probably round up pieces and get them to >you at a minimal cost (I probably have most of what you need in my shop). > >Hope this helps > >Chris Nogy > > >*********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > >On 1/31/2007 at 9:41 AM Solberg, Bennett J LCDR NMIMC wrote: > >>I am having trouble finding boards thick enough for some of the larger >>pieces. Would it be feasible to glue two boards together to achieve a >>board >>of appropriate thickness and then cut it to shape? I have a neighbor with >>a >>joiner and planer which should theoretically make it a good fit. Thanks >> >>B
