Thanks. I figured I'd make the shaft paralell to the sound board and angle the surface of the wheel by scraping...I don't want to make it too complicated. I'm going to have to buy a small metal lathe to make the shaft. This is an expensive hobby more so than pipemaking... Seth
Roy Trotter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hey Seth, Hope your Orca arrived in good order, and am glad to see yr still interested in building, and not just PLAYING ALL THE TIME. I would recommend the jig as a plank at least 3/4 inch thick by probably 3 -4 inch wide, although that's variable. So is the long, but it needs to be at least the distance from the butt plate to the brace forward of the wheel, plus the length of a block outside of the B P and also be able to lay across that brace. The block outside has a twin just behind the brace. These have the (in this case) 5/8 pilot holes drilled thru. They are placed where the pilot hole meets the point where the holes go in the gurdy. The whole thing gets clamped to the braces and where-ever possible. I made on that wasn't tough enough, apparently there is a lot of torque in that auger. So I recommend at least 3/4' thick. For some reason I think plywood would be prefered, but I dont remember why... I old jig had the hole centers at 3/4 inch. It was designed to run the shaft parellel to the soundboard. Helmut Gotschy (SP?) explained in surprising depth why you don't want to do that, but I don't have clue how low to put those pilot holes to get the desired angle..but the hole in the end (BP) is lower( relative to soundboard) than the hole in the brace. This tilts the wheel back which raises the action on the tangents/chanterelles getting the fingertips out of the drones,etc. Otherwise if you want to make the shaft parallel I'd recommend 3/4 inch below soundboard line in both cases. I can show you my translation notes and draw you some pictures someday.. Oh... I might be belaboring the obvious but line those those blocks up by slipping them on the auger to hold them in line while they are getting glued, screwed (tattooed?) to the "plank" part. Good Luck and have fun. Roy On 3/26/07, Seth Hamon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Ok I'm going through with a 5/8" ship auger, http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/texasbagpiper/gurdypic.jpg Any Idea's how to make sure I get a perfect straight bore... What kind of jig etc... Is used to do this... Thanks, Seth
