You can also fix the bearing plate, by first removing it & setting it in properly (there are marking which must be aligned. To set it right flat, get a thin but strong plastic tube, get it cut flat, put it at the bearing plate so it covers the niple, set the plate in with two light hammer stokes upon the plastic tube. You could use a flat cut piece of wood, where a bit more than the diameter of the nipple is cut out in the middle. This is the same old methode used still today by the makers. Or it could be a barrel of plastic also. But not any metal as it could damage the plate or scratch at least. ============================================================ ==============================================
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 7:21 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Sticky Valves? >from: Snapfoo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >subject: [Hornlist] Sticky Valves? >my first valve and occasionally my Bb trigger will stick Any advice? Hi Chris- Here is what I would do personally and good luck! ______________________________________ 1) If I were a brand new hornist and my valves stuck for the first time, the instinct is to get the oil out and drop a lot into the slides and into the rotor top and bottom. ______________________________________ 2) If the oil didn't work, I'd try lighter fluid. ***This is a QUICK fix-and the lighter fluid must be washed out asap with clear warm water. Of course, everyone knows about not smoking around lighter fluid (I had to say this).*** Place the horn on one's lap or in a vise with the slides pointing straight up. A repair person on this list will have the best way to do this (if it is indicated). Take the lighter fluid (kerosene) and put just a FEW DROPs straight down the open tube of the slide and be careful NOT to hit the walls of the tube-or else any grease and dirt that may be present will slide into the valve-making it even dirtier. ______________________________________ 3) If the oil and/or kerosene do not work, then it would be time to diagnose the problem. Many starter hornists do not realize that sticky valves can be caused things other than lack of oil or too much dirt: a) If string-operated valves, the string is so tight that the valves will not throw properly. In this case, it is necessary to made adjustments to the tensioning screws with a tiny screwdriver. b) If bumper 'corks' are out of position-or, (as Hans suggested) the back plate is out of alignment, you can only fix one of these things - the cork with a razor. There have been a number of nice responses to the bumper cork and neo post that was sent some days back (thank you listers!) and one of them does have a good method of installing and seating cork or neo. ***Kids, don't try this at home unless you are a repair Kid*** The back plate should be removed and reset by a repair shop. At the same time, they will clean your valves and do any other fixes to the horn that are needed. ______________________________________ UNLESS someone has properly instructed you how to do this yourself, it is not recommended that you do this at home. The valves have to be tapped out and then reseated. This is a specific process that has to be done absolutely correctly, the first time and every time. If this is done incorrectly, your valves can be destroyed- especially when reseating the back plate. ______________________________________ c) If the valves are tapped out, this is the perfect time to clean them. Soap and warm water are okay for this-and Dawn detergent leaves the least amount of residue (in fact you can bathe cats, dogs and birds with Dawn). d) If none of the above, the one other thing that could be a factor (and which is rare) are lever springs that have lost their tensioning factor. Although I have never met anyone else this happened to-it did happen on my old 8D years ago. The springs for the 3 levers became so loose that the levers just sprang 'backward'-due to the (counter-springs present underneath the instrument on the lever arm assemblies (is that what they are called, repair guys?) A spring that is 'losing its tensioning factor' will respond more slowly than a spring that is undamaged-and one symptom is slower lever response. The springs must be replaced, once the tensioning is damaged. There is no way to repair a spring after damage. Last note: when oiling the horn-and it is found that the slides need a bit of grease, you want to make absolutely certain that all excess oil has been drained out of the horn and some air blown through the instrument to get the last of it before applying grease. Failing to do this can cause the grease to mix with the extra oil, making a sludge which will clog the valves. best wishes Rachel Harvey ________________________________________ Disclaimer: The material in this mail is based upon a combination of real experiences, acquired knowledge, and personal opinion. Disputes may be entertained by sending private mail to the address listed above. _______________________________________________ post: [email protected] unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/hans%40pizka. de _______________________________________________ post: [email protected] unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
