Lots of time I write something then decided to toss it but somehow your postings got me involved and I got a chance to share a little bit of what I'm doing.
There were times when I wasn't sure if I made a correct decision in adopting the DJ30 after many years of Epsons with the last one being the R1800 which gave me a clog from hell that became the last straw. Still it took me a long time to finally come to the point where I can now really appreciate the HP. The latest discovery was a persistent air pocket that killed many LC printheads after a regular usage interval of around 15cc each. This made it so difficult to profile the printer as I had to do it so regularly as the head wore out and a new head popped in. It was a wild goose chase. It also took me a long time to learn how to put a water-borne protection coating on the swellable media. I have now developed the patience of a saint to wait for the print to fully cure before coating it. Coating too early will just cause moisture to be trapped in the polymer and makes it sticky for a long time. When in a big hurry I'd print on a matte media and can coat and handle almost immediately. The print you'll be receiving on Monday was packed for shipping just a few hours after it was printed. I hope it won't stick to the back of the protective sheet when it gets to you. Normally I'd give this Kodak Premium Photo Paper (swellable, not instant dry), or HPPPGlossy for that matter, 2 weeks of curing time but since I know you're racing against time so off it goes. I know now why the back of swellable media are so rough: so the stacked prints can breath while curing. Ilford Galerie Classic, Kodak Ultima and Premium Photo, and HPPPGloss or Satin, all are made the same way. The last time I profiled for this media was a month ago and I was happy that it printed exactly the way it looked on my calibrated monitor. No color drift that required relinearization, or reprofiling, at all. The heads are holding up. After printing your test image I went back to look at the scan you sent earlier and found mine to be extremely accurate: it shows the mild red posterization of the model's skin tone around the light to shadow transition just like what I see on screen and analyzed with Photoshop eyedropper. So I wondered what was going on in the Epson 7600 print? Either it was touched up to remove the posterization prior to printing or it has weaker red than the HP so the posterization wasn't that obvious. It should have shown the posterization as well as the muddy gray under the model's left knee. The only drawback is that I do need Wasatch SoftRIP to make this happen, but with saving in ink cost and clog-busting time I can recoup the RIP purchase pretty quickly. Maybe I'll save enough to upgrade my EyeOne Photo calibration system to add the CMYK module - or maybe I won't because even with just RGB I think it is good enough. I think you're going to love your new DJ130, but be fairly warned that as usual there is learning curve and I hope your first assignment with it proves to be a satifying one. --nick --- In [email protected], "unlisted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I am blessed that you are a member Nick > Website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HPDesignJet_Printers Post message: [email protected] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] List owner: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HPDesignJet_Printers/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HPDesignJet_Printers/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
