On Nov 6, 1:58 am, kfj <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 6 Nov., 01:41, Isaac Gouy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Where do I have to give them separate fake EV values?
> > In the exif of the photos?
> > In some input field in Hugin?
>
> You don't have to change anything in your images, though that works
> just the same. It's enough to go to the 'camera and lens' tab, choose
> the 'photometric' subsection, select each image in turn and enter the
> fake EV value in the 'EV' field in the lower left of the screen.
>
> > Although from what I've seen a stable camera is a basic requirement
> > for enfuse exposure fusion and focus fusion - any movement beyond what
> > align_image_stack can fix seems to be too much movement for an
> > acceptable result.
>
> Correct. To use enfuse you need very precise alignment. Much more than
> in ordinary stitching, where enblend can just try and put the seam
> somewhere where there's little visible discrepancy. Your 'movement'
> inevitably translates to parallactic errors, so precise alignment
> becomes impossible and the result is disappointing. This is no fault
> of the software, it's a direct consequence of the laws of optics.

The only reason I was tempted to try was that as you say, in ordinary
stitching there's often little visible discrepancy.


> So you absolutely must shoot from the same position. If you can't use
> a tripod, find a rock or tree. The problem with focus stacks is that
> you have to change the focus between shots, so unless your camera is
> mounted somehow, it's very difficult to maintain the same position
> from one shot to the next. With exposure blending, you can just do an
> AEB with a steady hand and that may still be enough.

As long as the camera provides a wide enough bracket, otherwise it's
the same situation as focus fusion :-)

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