Brandan, Thank you for your amazing answer. The ball head is always lock and I do NOT use it at all. To rotate left-right I use a head feature - connection, which is under a ball head. My L bracket in NOT adjustable. Has been designed by me and cut on CNC machine especially to my camera, grip and accessories. There is no way than the lens is not in nodal point apart of one detail, which I just realised today:
If I tilted forward or backward my L bracket on my ball head, they the nodal point will be moved. I always adjust the L bracket on my ball head by eye! It could be an issue!!! If I use a tripod without any head the nodal point will be in perfect position then! To answer your question I pan up or down my camera without using the ball head. I do it by changing position of plate which is attached to the L bracket - you can see this on the photo below: So I think I need to change my tripod or pay more attention to adjusting the head ball. <http://www.rozenek.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/2013.09.09-Panoramic-Bracket-02.jpg> Anyway, I still do not know what are the Hugin settings for: <https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qfB_1LJIipE/UyrNOYYIIvI/AAAAAAAAArw/qFHUVFRzV9A/s1600/hugin2.jpg> On Thursday, 20 March 2014 10:57:23 UTC, Brandan wrote: > How do you pan up and down? If you use the ball then it will change the > nodal point quite a bit. If the ball stays locked and has no wiggle then I > do not see how the ball can hurt anything and it would give you the option > to do things at slants, which could be handy once in a while. > > If you are using the arm that you built into the panohead and you tilt up > and down, it should work if you have things set right. > > I see that you did not build any side to side adjustments, but sounds like > you are confident that you put the holes in the right spot. I can not tell > from your photos if you have adjustments so that you can move the camera > forward and back on the arm or not. If you do, check them. I find the arm > to be a bugger to adjust, but well worth it if you can figure out how. > Another thing to keep in mind when you build them is that the pivot point > of the arm needs to be inline with the pivot point on the ball head. Get it > out of line, then perfect adjustment forward to back will be wrong for side > to side and vise verse.(In your build if in the main chunk both sets of > holes are in the center of the metal and the corner has a good bend it > should be good.) > > > As far as making hugin work better, have you tried adding the control > points by hand on one set and seeing the results? That would be an easy way > to check if it is hugin or your camera set up. If it is hugin, I often > select the problem photos and set the control points just on those 2-how > ever many at that one place at a time. It is slow figuring out which photos > to select to run CPfind on just them, but it often beats looking for > control points by hand. > -- A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hugin and other free panoramic software" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hugin-ptx/9bd1d7f9-22b8-4948-a443-603b702472da%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
