hi, Yes, Shooting and mastering handheld panoramas makes a panorama factory. Due to "tripod not allowed" issues, I had to improve my handheld panorama shooting. Now I am unplugged, travel light and no restrictions. But I have developed a humapod technique.
Just raise camera up above my head which is center point of my body. Camera in portrait orientation Now simply rotate my body and take images (With little practice your number of shots will be minimized) Advantages of this technique are low parallax errors than philopod. Parallax is directly related with distance of camera to objects. If objects are near to camera; than parallax is increased and if objects are far away from camera parallax is decreased. I got confirmation from Michael thoby as well. Now in this case camera is almost 7 feet high whereas in philopod method it is almost 3.5 feet. It is also like shooting with a little pole. Another method I use is to hold camera on my chest right under my chin. I get lesser camera shake and I shoot without philopod. In this technique camera lens and tip of shoes are almost on same point. Keep an eye on shoes tip, rotate and keep shooting :) Carlos 500 handheld panoramas is a good target. I thought 21 panoramas in 3 hours was more than enough :) On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 10:29 PM, 'kfj' via hugin and other free panoramic software <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Am Samstag, 23. August 2014 15:43:43 UTC+2 schrieb Cartola: >> >> I totally agree with Kay. >> >> When I have first tested philopod some years ago I didn't like it and >> abandoned it. A few time ago I have rediscovered it and maybe finally used >> it correctly. I am using it all time now (many examples in my weekly >> publishings <http://cartola.org/360/>). It's lighter, shooting is >> faster, call less attention, mainly in "forbidden places" like museums and >> others where they tend to complain about tripods, and stitching is also >> much faster, with nadir already ok in the first step. >> >> This video shows a good technique to take advantage of the philopod >> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouOEM4cKKGc>. >> > > The video shows the 'classic' philopod technique. Notice how, in the first > example, the camera is tilted slightly up/down. If the philopod were > positioned precisely (weight over ground target), tilting the camera down > means moving the NPP further forward than it should be, and tilting it up > moves it further back. Using my loop-and-brace technique avoids the > problem; the brace will keep the loop precisely in-plane with the NPP at > all times. Florian's second example shows him doing zenith and nadir shots > by 'rule of thumb'. This works all right, but with the loop and brace > technique, you don't do zenith and nadir shots vertically up or down, but, > still guided by the philopd, tilted very far up and very far down. Again > the brace takes care of keeping the loop in-plane with the NPP, only the > sky shot is a bit awkward since the camera body gets in the way of the loop > if the brace isn't very big, but the zenith is usually less problematic > than the nadir, since most of the content there is quite far away and > parallax isn't a problem. For the nadir shot, I position the camera with > the philopd and then gently swing it out of the way with one hand when I > take the shot - that way I don't have the string and weight in the picture. > > I am particularly pleased with the good performance around the nadir. I > routinely use my GPS unit, oriented to magnetic north, as my ground target. > When I stitch the panorama, all I need to do to orient it is to center on > the nadir, drag the GPS unit's image to the center, and rotate until the > GPS unit shows upright. With this simple operation I get a perfectly level > horizon and I don't have to bother myself with orienting the panorama some > other way - I can upload straight to 360cities. > >> >> Zeiljko Soletic <http://www.360cities.net/profile/gospar2> inspired me >> to retry the technique. Watching his panoramas (almost all with philopod) I >> gave it another try. For example, in a trip to France he shot more than 500 >> panoramas with philopod (he mentioned that at facebook). >> > > Almost all my recent ones are done with a philopod as well: > > https://www.360cities.net/profile/kfj > >> >> Tripod or pole now only for specific situations, like when long >> expositions are necessary or a higher point of view (pole). I have a drone >> for even higher shooting :) >> > > Cool! I thought about geting into drones myself. I suppose it's fun > programming the thing to do it's little dance around the NPP ;) > I found that the philopod isn't precise enough to do man-made stuff, since > in straight lines, you can see even single-pixel errors. But for > landscapes, it's all I need. I make sure that the horizon +/- 30° stitches > correctly and leave the covering up of the ground and sky errors to the > blender - that's why you usually see the image of my GPS unit 'torn in > half' when you look at the nadir of my images. > > Kay > > -- > A list of frequently asked questions is available at: > http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ > --- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hugin and other free panoramic software" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hugin-ptx/7878b779-e499-41b7-8239-3619f267ab4c%40googlegroups.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hugin-ptx/7878b779-e499-41b7-8239-3619f267ab4c%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- *Emaad* www.flickr.com/emaad -- A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hugin and other free panoramic software" group. 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