Sounds like a REALLY fun project! It reminds me of the plans for a 'clog fiddle' - I really love the idea of recycling one instrument into something new. Although it seems to me that a cello body would be a bit large ?

I haven't seen any replies to this yet, so I'll throw in my two cents:

1) Wheel thickness /diameter: Whatever other responses you get on this, it probably bears mentioning that you want to make sure to make the wheel in such a way that it won't be affected by temperature / humidity changes. Wood swells along grain lines, so if you use a single piece of wood you will likely have a wheel that is circular part of the wheel, and oval shaped at other times. A wheel built of multiple layers of wood works well, with the grain alternating directions for each layer. This will prevent seasonal distortions of the wheel. I like Baltic birch, although some very talented makers are using other types of wood products (I think I recall seeing MDF at one point?) Of course there's no reason why you can't build up the layers yourself either. An 8" wheel would work, but man! what a large instrument. The larger the wheel, the larger the instrument has to be to accommodate it. Generally speaking you tend not to see hurdy gurdies with a wheel much larger than 7"; I feel that this is likely for ergonomic reasons- in that it produces strain on the wrists & forearms to wield such an instrument. Thickness: Usually a 3/4" wheel is pretty adequate, maybe a smidge thicker for that large of strings. I don't know what your scale length is, but I would think 1 & 1/2" would be a bit overkill

2) Placement: With hurdy gurdies you tend to see the bridge as close as possible to the wheel. Why is this? The wheel behaves like a violin bow, but then violinists play with their bow much further from their bridge. By increasing the distance between the wheel & bridge, you might gain a little in resonance (most noticeable in lower midrange frequencies to my ears), but then the arc of vibration of the strings increases too, and you may have issues of chatter against the tangents.

3) Handle radius: you don't want this any larger than the wheel, and usually you tend to see them a little smaller. Setting it up this way makes playing more about the 'wrist' and less about the elbow. Although I've never fooled around with an 8" wheel so this is based on experience with a wheel size of 6-7". With an 8" wheel you might want a considerably smaller radius (in terms of ratio).

I'm really itching to see how this turns out for you.  Best of luck
Cheers,
George


----- Original Message ----- From: "maraujo" <[email protected]>
To: "hurdygurdy" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:51 PM
Subject: [HG-new] Hello to all, I have a question about hurdy wheel theory


Just joined this group, and I'm excited to learn from all of you
scattered hurdy gurdy enthusiasts.  I am currently planing my own
hurdy gurdy design.  I'm going adapt a old cello body to make a large
musical furniture piece with legs.  I would like to use cello strings
for a deeper tone than a conventional hurdy gurdy but this leaves me
with some critical design questions.  Here are three of the more
important ones...

1. Wheel Diameter/Thickness:

If I'm using a longer vibrational length of string would it be wise to
use a larger diameter wheel?  I would think it takes more energy to
get the string humming and thus I should use a larger diameter so that
the outside edge of the wheel has a higher speed.  Should the
thickness of the wheel be increased as well?   Say an 8" diameter with
a 1 1/2" thickness?


2. Wheel Placement:

Ive had a very difficult time finding a rule for what fraction of the
string should be between the center line of the wheel and the bridge.
I have examined some plans and found a range of variable distances
people use.  Should I scale up existing plans for the longer string,
or is this distance generally constant for all string lengths?


3. Handle radius:

Is there any rule for the radius of the handle as compared to that of
the wheel?  This is obviously not as important because I can quickly
change out the handle if its just based on user comfort/style.

Thank you in advance for taking the time to read my questions.  I
would appreciate any incite you have no matter how brief.



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