Eva Eskilsson offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print. Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum. ----------- PUBLICATION GUIDELINES - You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety. - Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity. - Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only. - If you publish this article in a format that supports linking, please ensure that all URLs and email addresses are active links. - Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to [email protected] - Article Marketer (www.ArticleMarketer.com) has distributed this article on behalf of the author. Article Marketer does not own this article, please respect the author's copyright and publication guidelines. If you do not agree to these terms, please do not use this article. ----------- Article Title: How to Find Your Way on Alpine Climbs - Route Finding Tips Author: Eva Eskilsson Category: Outdoors, Sports, Inspirational/Motivational Word Count: 586 Keywords: route finding, alpine climbing, mountaineering, guiding, mountain climbing, Author's Email Address: [email protected] Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com ------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
You normally climb fast, your rope work is efficient, and you are fit enough, but often you end up lost and confused on long alpine climbs where the routefinding gets tricky. Even relatively easy, established routes can become hazardous, difficult and unpleasant if you make the wrong routefinding decisions. The vitally important capability of determining the best line to the top requires only your eyes and brain. Routefinding in the mountains involves logic, precision, attention to details, and having a holistic sense of your surrounding. It is a complex and highly intuitive skill that can be obtained by developing habits of observation, analysis and memorization. For the majority of climbers in the Alps we are actually talking about practicing routefollowing; following an established route. Routefinding is to identify the best line on the mountain and where you are relative to that line. In both cases you need to prepare your self by researching you climb already in advance, either by studying a well-drawn climbing topo or photos of the peak. Identify key features and where the route goes in relation to these. Also take a look at the terrain of adjacent routes. Bring copies of photos and guidebook descriptions with you. Finally talk to locals for extra information and current conditions. Continue to observe your line on the approach and take the time to stop and memorize when having a good view of the route. Note landmarks that will be visible to you once you are there and do not forget to check out the descent if different to the ascent. Normally routes go on safer, more solid ground where the quality of climbing is better, such as following major ridges, ledge systems and clean walls. Stay out of rocky gullies that look easy! Once on the climb, constantly observe details in your surrounding while climbing; rock features and their sizes, crack systems, fixed gear, and note where you are on your memorized map. Recognize evidence that you are off-route and retreat if on too technically hard ground. The grading in the guidebook should give you a hint (even if grade 5+ on an old route can mean any difficulty above 5). Routefinding is, like climbing, all about finding the easiest way up. Assessing the difficulty of each move and turn to find the path that requires the least effort is a good practice. On classic routes, the way might be marked on the rock by a whitish trail on granite, polished or chalked holds and clean cracks. Other signs of previous climbers such as pitons, not too faded slings and off course bolts will also guide you. But just a single nut or piton with a small piece of webbing through it often marks a back-off point, meaning that people have retreated because they went wrong. The popular routes in the Alps contain quite a lot of fixed gear. Anchors are usually bolted, especially on regularly guided routes and routes that are commonly rappelled. The quality of anchors is most often consistent on such routes, so significantly poorer anchors probably indicate intermediate or off-route belays. If possible, localize and memorize the anchors you will use for rappelling already on your way up. You should always trust your own observations on a climb over guidebooks or verbal descriptions from others. All sources of route descriptions are subjective. Practice is the way to improve and the more you get out in the mountains, the better you will get. Always take the chances you get to lead and always analyze your mistakes carefully. Eva Eskilsson writes for a small guiding company based in Chamonix Mt Blanc (http://www.mountain-spirit-guides.com). They offer guided climbing and mountaineering in the Alps and tailor made alpine climbing and mountaineering courses. ------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
