Our "77 C27's  keel stub bilge drys out between sails on weekends.  I run a 
dehumidifier when we're at the dock.  We get more water from window leaks 
(dammit) than from the prop shaft.  The packing gland doesn't drip at when the 
shaft isn't turning. 

We have a regular ole' packing gland, fitted with "dripless" teflon packing.  
We have replaced the packing every couple of years and we adjust the nut as 
needed, so it rarely drips while motoring.  We have a small Rule bilge pump in 
the keel stubby.   With the newer dripless packing, you don't need water to 
cool the gland.  Water contains contaminants,, which wears shafts....  but you 
gotta have a smooth shaft for them to work well.

The shaft was inspected the last time the engine was pulled, in 2002.  The 
packing gland has been concientiously maintained, so the prop shaft is in good 
condition, with no visible scoring.  We repacked it in about 2005, because it 
was starting to drip more frequently than 1 once or twice a minute. 

Sorry, I can't remember which brand of "dripless" packing we chose last time.  
I paid the pros at Svendsens' marina about $90 to repack it last time -- I 
don't like working in the "cave: -- it hurts my neck.    They adjusted it once 
for free after that and only charged me  for 20 minutes at the shop rate to 
readjust it a year later.   The shop foreman does it himself while checking out 
my boat.   I'm happy to pay for expert advice when I don' t have the expertise 
myself.  

I'm don't know any more than that about packing glands, and what I've written 
is just what I've learned from the pros at Svendsen's Boatyard in Alameda, CA

Fair winds,
Judy B 
1977 C27 TR #3459 "Bijou"
San Francisco Bay, CA 
www.blumhorst.com


________________________________
From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 8:39:48 AM
Subject: Re: [IC27A] Re: Bilge Pumps

  
I'm kind of pessimistic about this "theoretical" fix to get a dry bilge, but  - 
- - - - 

Has anyone tried using a solar vent to vent the bilge area, and get the bilge 
water to evaporate? Theoretically, I tend to doubt that it would work as there 
is usually a bit of oil on top of the bilge water, but I thought that I'd ask.

Or should one just spend the time and effort to stop all leaks and use dripless 
packing for the shaft seal?

Bob

In a message dated 4/5/2010 9:00:27 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, 
jmyers6...@aol. com writes:
  
>This does not address your backflow problem but I see that someone has already 
>indicated a solution. As far as setups go, I bought a 1984 C27 in Nov 2006 and 
>the owner had a nice set up on the bilge pumps. He had one Rule 500 GPM 
>automatic pump mounted to small plexiglass plate that sat on the bottom of the 
>bilge. It was his primary. Then he added a seconed pump about a foot or so 
>forward but it was mounted elevated about an inch or two. Then he ran the 
>discharge hose from the second pump up and out a thru hull in the side wall of 
>the cockpit on the battery (port) side. The theory was that all was well if 
>pump # 1 was working but if pump # 1 ever failed, pump # 2 would kick in to 
>save the day, and if it ever did, you would be alerted by the water suddenly 
>flowing into the cockpit floor. Seemed like great insurance.
>
>--- In ic...@yahoogroups. com, "PaulJ" <jau...@...> wrote:
>>
>> I am curious as to the bilge pump setup in other C27s. My 1986 has a Rule 
>> 2000 with a float switch. It seems to do the job, but I have the usual inch 
>> or so of backflow when when the pump shuts off. Does anyone have a better 
>> solution?
>> Thanks
>>
>
>

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