When we lay our 270 up for the winter on the trailer, I use a turkey
baster to remove the salty water from my wing keel keel bolts. Then,
I add a bit of fresh water and repeat the process. After a complete
drying with a paper towel or two, I close the bilge up for the boat's
long winter nap. We angle the mast towards the bow like a ridge pole
on a tent, (spreaders are removed from one side), while the base of
the spar is supported at the stern by the stainless steal tubing
supporting our cockpit canvass. We tarp her down with two tarps
joined at the middle. Finally, we place an older tarp that nearly
covers the first two tarps over everything. This tarp acts as the
'sacrificial' tarp to the UV gods. This arrangement allows us easy
access via the stern boarding ladder into the cockpit and interior
where I can mope in privacy until spring sailing season begins. Foam
pipe wrap can be tied over the tops of the stanchions and other sharp
places to protect the inner tarps from puncture. The height and
angle of the mast provides for good drainage and shedding of leaves.
I have also made some large plastic bows, like you might find in a
domed tent, from some soft 1 1/2" black water tubing to add support
to the tarps from beneath. I tie their bases to the bottom of the
stanchions. At my elevation in Paradise, CA we get very little
snow. Mostly rain, wind, and lots of leaves.
Naturally, we drain our water tank, lines, heater, and will remove
the check valve for the water heater this next winter as it did
freeze and crack during the past winter. I top off the diesel,
change the engine oil and tranny fluid, and monitor the level of
antifreeze. Batteries are filled, and one window in the aft berth is
opened to allow for air circulation. I also remove the wheel which
facilitates entering the boat, and stow all the cushion and canvass
inside. So far we have never experienced any mold inside so I am
pleased with this arrangement. If living in a harsher climate, it
would of course be a different ball game.
Herb Clark
[email protected]
Chico Yacht Club
s/v Imagine - Catalina 270
s/v Hotel Charlie - Catalina 25'
d/s Coyote - Coronado 15'
"Why sail a blow when I can tow?"
On Apr 5, 2010, at 9:27 AM, Judith Blumhorst, DC wrote:
Our "77 C27's keel stub bilge drys out between sails on weekends.
I run a dehumidifier when we're at the dock. We get more water
from window leaks (dammit) than from the prop shaft. The packing
gland doesn't drip at when the shaft isn't turning.
We have a regular ole' packing gland, fitted with "dripless" teflon
packing. We have replaced the packing every couple of years and we
adjust the nut as needed, so it rarely drips while motoring. We
have a small Rule bilge pump in the keel stubby. With the newer
dripless packing, you don't need water to cool the gland. Water
contains contaminants,, which wears shafts.... but you gotta have
a smooth shaft for them to work well.
The shaft was inspected the last time the engine was pulled, in
2002. The packing gland has been concientiously maintained, so the
prop shaft is in good condition, with no visible scoring. We
repacked it in about 2005, because it was starting to drip more
frequently than 1 once or twice a minute.
Sorry, I can't remember which brand of "dripless" packing we chose
last time. I paid the pros at Svendsens' marina about $90 to
repack it last time -- I don't like working in the "cave: -- it
hurts my neck. They adjusted it once for free after that and
only charged me for 20 minutes at the shop rate to readjust it a
year later. The shop foreman does it himself while checking out
my boat. I'm happy to pay for expert advice when I don' t have
the expertise myself.
I'm don't know any more than that about packing glands, and what
I've written is just what I've learned from the pros at Svendsen's
Boatyard in Alameda, CA
Fair winds,
Judy B
1977 C27 TR #3459 "Bijou"
San Francisco Bay, CA
www.blumhorst.com
From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 8:39:48 AM
Subject: Re: [IC27A] Re: Bilge Pumps
I'm kind of pessimistic about this "theoretical" fix to get a dry
bilge, but - - - - -
Has anyone tried using a solar vent to vent the bilge area, and get
the bilge water to evaporate? Theoretically, I tend to doubt that
it would work as there is usually a bit of oil on top of the bilge
water, but I thought that I'd ask.
Or should one just spend the time and effort to stop all leaks and
use dripless packing for the shaft seal?
Bob
In a message dated 4/5/2010 9:00:27 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
jmyers6...@aol. com writes:
This does not address your backflow problem but I see that someone
has already indicated a solution. As far as setups go, I bought a
1984 C27 in Nov 2006 and the owner had a nice set up on the bilge
pumps. He had one Rule 500 GPM automatic pump mounted to small
plexiglass plate that sat on the bottom of the bilge. It was his
primary. Then he added a seconed pump about a foot or so forward
but it was mounted elevated about an inch or two. Then he ran the
discharge hose from the second pump up and out a thru hull in the
side wall of the cockpit on the battery (port) side. The theory was
that all was well if pump # 1 was working but if pump # 1 ever
failed, pump # 2 would kick in to save the day, and if it ever did,
you would be alerted by the water suddenly flowing into the cockpit
floor. Seemed like great insurance.
--- In ic...@yahoogroups. com, "PaulJ" <jau...@...> wrote:
>
> I am curious as to the bilge pump setup in other C27s. My 1986
has a Rule 2000 with a float switch. It seems to do the job, but I
have the usual inch or so of backflow when when the pump shuts off.
Does anyone have a better solution?
> Thanks
>
