>>> Warning, this picture also contains a dropped noseband. (and a fairly
unattractive picture of myself).

You look fine, and at least you don't have tension in the reins as you're
standing there!   That's one of my pet peeves with dropped nosebands - when
the horses don't get much chance to relax and breath.   The horse is
beautiful!  (I love bay.)

>>>> The tree doesn't start until a few inches back so although the saddle
overlaps his shoulder it doesn't interfere.

Obviously, I can't tell if the saddle fits from one picture, but one thing
I've noticed with western saddles that I'd like to point out to others.
Many times we worry about where the back edge of the skirt of a western
saddle ends, but we really should look at what part of the horse's back that
the rider's weight is on.   The angle makes it hard to say, but it doesn't
look like your weight is too far back to me...so if the skirt isn't too
stiff and doesn't rub, and your weight isn't on the cantle, I could see that
this saddle might work.  On the other hand, I had a round-skirted cordura
saddle for a while.  It was shorter than this saddle, but the darned skirt
sort of cupped down and rubbed even though the length looked ok.

One question for you - does the girth get too close to his elbows?  Again, I
can't tell, just curious.   I'm not an expert on western saddles BY ANY
MEANS, but I've been using a packer cinch when I use my Bob Marshall
Endurance saddle.  It didn't come with rear billets, so I simply bought a
couple of spare off-billets, added them to the rear and that works well with
the packer cinch.   By anchoring the saddle front and rear, it seems to help
keep the cinch out of his elbows.  An extra bonus with my BMSS is that I
don't have to cinch up quite as tightly with the packer cinch, I guess since
it's anchored front and rear.   Yours may be fine, but seeing the picture
just made me think of this.

He's a really pretty horse and he looks handsome in his western saddle.

Karen Thomas, NC





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