http://www.atimes.com/atimes/Southeast_Asia/NK02Ae01.html

Nov 2, 2012 

It is not Chittagong here - it's Indonesia
By Andre Vltchek 

MADURA ISLAND, Indonesia - For a short time, this island that begins just a 
mile from the shores of the second largest Indonesian city - Surabaya - made it 
to the local and international press. Two Shi'ite men were murdered by a 
machete-waving crowd of bigots belonging to the Sunni majority. In the single 
hamlet of Nanggernang (Karang Gayam village), in the center of the island, some 
50 houses were destroyed, most of them burned down. 

Almost 200 Shi'ite people are now living in the indoor tennis stadium turned 
refugee camp in the nearby city of Sampang.



Refugee camp at Sampang 

Some say the dispute began over a young girl, a pupil at a religious boarding 
school. Two imams - two brothers - one Shi'ite and one Sunni were involved. A 
Sunni imam fell in love with a girl and his brother prevented him from marrying 
her. 

There are always rumors like that in Indonesia. Bigotry and racism are never 
blamed on those who commit genocide, murder and discrimination plaguing this 
archipelago since the US-sponsored coup that put Suharto in power in 1965. 

There are clear signs of 'foreign', namely Saudi influence, but everyone is 
afraid to speak about the issue. 

"Not all Saudi alumna in Indonesia are anti Shi'ite", explains Azyumardi Azra, 
Director of the Graduate School of State Islamic University in Jakarta. "Look 
at the former Minister of Religious Affairs, Said Aqil Husein Munawar." 

But one could say, look at the present one - Religious Affairs Minister 
Suryadharma Ali and what comes from his mouth: "Converting Shi'ite Muslims to 
the Sunni Islam followed by most Indonesians would be the best way to prevent 
violent outbreaks…" 
The government of Indonesia is once again failing to stop the violence against 
minorities. The outbreak of fierce discrimination did not begin with some love 
story, but with the religious fatwa passed by the MUI [Indonesian Ulema 
Council] of Sampang deeming Shi'ites as heretical. 

And by the militant pamphlets that are being distributed by madrassas in 
Sampang and elsewhere in Madura, as well as East Java, proclaiming that the 
Shi'ite community is following misguided teachings of Islam, with the 
conclusions that "The Muslims have to be alert of Shi'ites." 



Police car near destroyed village 

"Before Ramadan this year, Al Anwar mussala from across the street had been 
broadcasting sermons twice a week. They had their loudspeakers directed towards 
our school. They were broadcasting that our blood is halal", explains Naila 
Zakiyah, a Shi'ite teacher at Al Mahadul Islami Yapi boarding school in the 
city of Bangil, East Java, which includes a sizeable Madurese population. 

Investigating this latest case of religious intolerance, on a recent journey to 
Madura, right after the ferry crossing I came across the most polluted beach I 
have seen anywhere in the world. No sand was visible; the entire shore was 
covered by garbage. 

And on the horizon, like some terrible ghosts, stood enormous decomposing cargo 
ships. 

I drove closer, soon realizing that what I was witnessing was an Indonesian 
version of the infamous Bangladeshi breaking yards found in Chittagong. 




A team of shipbreakers 

Hundreds of coolies were taking apart, with their bare hands, enormous sea 
vessels. The sparks were flying, terrible fumes covering the area, and the 
water all around was turning black. 

I was told that people die here, or get injured. It was explained that 
periodically there are terrible explosions. 

The images were so powerful that I immediately went to work, using my entire 
still and filming equipment. 

For some reason I felt that what I was witnessing in the interior of the island 
of Madura was connected to those violent images from the coast. 

It was what the mainstream Indonesian and Western press mostly omit that made 
the stories of Madura and so many places all over the archipelago so powerful 
and often so appalling: the intolerance, even feudalism, in which the country 
with its chronically low level of education and disgraceful poverty was still 
living. 

The hellish images of the breaking yard were somehow synonymous to the mental 
state of those who kill, destroy and insult because of ethnicity or belief. 

Andre Vltchek is a novelist, filmmaker and investigative journalist. He covered 
wars and conflicts in dozens of countries. His book on Western imperialism in 
South Pacific is Oceania and is available here. His provocative book about 
post-Suharto Indonesia and its market-fundamentalist model, is Indonesia - The 
Archipelago of Fear. 


(Republished with permission Japan Focus) 



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