"I have decided to make mine a single seater."
That is some very good advice, especially in hot-humid climates.
Ray Fuenzalida
<ray_pilot@yahoo. To: KR builders and pilots
<kr...@mylist.net>
com> cc:
Sent by: Subject: Re: KR>advice
krnet-bounces@myl
ist.net
10/24/2003 09:04
AM
Please respond to
KR builders and
pilots
Good luck and do what you want to do, but I also am very concerned with
wieght and the CG. Therefore, I have decided to make mine a single seater.
Should help all of the potential problems of being overgross. I'm right at
200 lbs. so hopefully, I'll have a speedster when its all said and done.
Ray
larry flesner <fles...@midwest.net> wrote:
>I'm looking for some advice. I am 6' and weigh about 238 lbs. I will get
down to about 210-220 lbs before my plane is finished and probably sooner
if I ever want a chance to fly in one sooner. I am building a stock KR2
and have ordered tri-gear.
>
>- What structural modifications should I consider (ie, larger stabilizers,
etc) to ensure this is a 2 place aircraft for my size? Obviously with a
smaller passenger...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I agree with Dan, don't panic. Your KR will fly at weights above
900 pounds. I'm not advising you to do this but simply stating
some observations I've made over the years. I was going to
e-mail you "off net" but I know there are those that disagree
with me and this will give you a chance to hear both sides and
make your own decisions.
- The CG HAS TO BE RIGHT at any weight.
- One well known KR has an empty weight of 780 lbs. The
pilot weighs at least 180, 60 pounds of fuel and an average
size passanger would put it at nearly 1200 pounds. It
takes A LOT OF POWER to fly a KR at those weights and
this aircraft has a hopped up 0-200. CAUTION: being
possible doesn't necessarily make it right. Carefully
consider any deviation from the plans.
What would I do at your state of building?
- Live with the fact that the fuselage will be narrow and you
will have to limit the "beam" of your passangers. If
possible, adjust seating so passanger can place their
left arm on the seat back for extended periods. This will
help you live with the limited shoulder room.
- You didn't say which tri-gear you have chosen. Certainly
dump what you have and consider the Diehl tri-gear.
- Increase the span of the horz stab by 6 inches or so
per side.
- Even if the canopy was not green I'd get rid of it also and
go with one of the canopys (or build one) that has some
vertical rise above the longerons before it arcs over to
the top.
- If you know you are going to fly heavy I'd stay with the
"stock" wing span and not go with the longer premolded
skins. Your landing and takeoff speeds will be slightly
higher but the longer wings place more stress on the
WAF's. Use horsepower to handle the extra weight and
not more wing.
- Try to keep your fuel as close to the CG envelope as
possible, i.e., smaller header tank with wing tanks.
That will limit you CG shift with fuel burn.
-Consider an engine of at least 100 hp. Finish the airframe
and then locate the engine to bring the CG to correct
location and then build the cowl.
With all that said, BUILD ACCORDING TO PLANS and if
the airplane doesn't fit your needs, build something else.
It's your decision.
Larry Flesner
_______________________________________________
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product
search_______________________________________________
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
