Pardon my question, but what additional load carrying capabity and what additional cruise speed and climb rate can u expect from this " and I must say impressive" 180 HP Engine. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Overall" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 4:16 AM Subject: KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-)
> OK, you didn't ask for it...........well some did offline with my > cheapest/easiest statement yesterday. > > Here is the the state of the project > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg > > Here is what I got via truck line yesterday > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero2.jpg > > It is a rotary 13B which will produce 180HP+...........I bought it for $650 > delivered. To rebuild the engine I'll have to buy an aero rebuild kit, not > auto rebuild, for right at $900. Gear reduction will run $2440 which will > allow me to run a metal prop for IFR. Computer engine moniter for aero use, > $875, dual aero designed fuel pumps $95 each and about $500 of extra parts. > As you can see, cheapest/easiest is coming into play:-) > > For engine/redrive see the following: > > http://www.rotaryaviation.com > http://rotaryresources.com > > Next the issue of engine mount/gear mount to fit my 0-360 > cowling..........hum, I sure don't want to have to tackle this.........let's > try: > > http://www.conversionconcepts.com/rv-6-7.htm > > Since I already have a new Dynafocal 1 engine mount and match drilled gear > legs, I posted a message yesterday, .......I sold them last night so as to > offset the purchase of a new mount. I'll order two new undrilled gear legs > for $170 each and have them match drilled to the gear attach points on the > new engine mount. No toe in adjustment as you just put a bolt in and the > issue is moot. > > Back to the issue of water-cooled and reduction drive. The more I looked at > the rotary the more bullet proof it appeared. I know that term is used way > too much but here is my take. The rotary will run at operating RPMs without > water for somewhere around 1/2 hour before the apex seals around the rotary > start to come apart. After they come apart, you certainly lose compression > and a resulting loss of RPMs. However, it still continues to run as no > metal is rubbing on metal. You won't be able to restart it but it will > continue to produce minimized horsepower. These things don't mechanically > break or blow up. With so few moving parts and no jugs to pull or valves to > lap, maintenance is at a minimum. The redrive unit from Tracy is a proven > unit. It is a final product and will turn a wood or metal prop. Sen. makes > a prop for this drive especially for the RV. The engines will efficiently > and reliably produce 180HP+. > > Someone slap me..............I must be asleep at the wheel making such a > decison:-) > > OH, KR related.............you can get a rotary to fit:-) > > > > Dana Overall > 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host > Richmond, KY > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" > Finish kit > Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. > http://rvflying.tripod.com > do not archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up - fast & reliable Internet access with prime > features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1 > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to [email protected] > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
