joe <[email protected]> wrote:Pardon my question, but what additional load carrying capabity and what additional cruise speed and climb rate can u expect from this " and I must say impressive" 180 HP Engine. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Overall" To: Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 4:16 AM Subject: KR>Fun Friday-lost my mind:-)
> OK, you didn't ask for it...........well some did offline with my > cheapest/easiest statement yesterday. > > Here is the the state of the project > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg > > Here is what I got via truck line yesterday > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero2.jpg > > It is a rotary 13B which will produce 180HP+...........I bought it for $650 > delivered. To rebuild the engine I'll have to buy an aero rebuild kit, not > auto rebuild, for right at $900. Gear reduction will run $2440 which will > allow me to run a metal prop for IFR. Computer engine moniter for aero use, > $875, dual aero designed fuel pumps $95 each and about $500 of extra parts. > As you can see, cheapest/easiest is coming into play:-) > > For engine/redrive see the following: > > http://www.rotaryaviation.com > http://rotaryresources.com > > Next the issue of engine mount/gear mount to fit my 0-360 > cowling..........hum, I sure don't want to have to tackle this.........let's > try: > > http://www.conversionconcepts.com/rv-6-7.htm > > Since I already have a new Dynafocal 1 engine mount and match drilled gear > legs, I posted a message yesterday, .......I sold them last night so as to > offset the purchase of a new mount. I'll order two new undrilled gear legs > for $170 each and have them match drilled to the gear attach points on the > new engine mount. No toe in adjustment as you just put a bolt in and the > issue is moot. > > Back to the issue of water-cooled and reduction drive. The more I looked at > the rotary the more bullet proof it appeared. I know that term is used way > too much but here is my take. The rotary will run at operating RPMs without > water for somewhere around 1/2 hour before the apex seals around the rotary > start to come apart. After they come apart, you certainly lose compression > and a resulting loss of RPMs. However, it still continues to run as no > metal is rubbing on metal. You won't be able to restart it but it will > continue to produce minimized horsepower. These things don't mechanically > break or blow up. With so few moving parts and no jugs to pull or valves to > lap, maintenance is at a minimum. The redrive unit from Tracy is a proven > unit. It is a final product and will turn a wood or metal prop. Sen. makes > a prop for this drive especially for the RV. The engines will efficiently > and reliably produce 180HP+. > > Someone slap me..............I must be asleep at the wheel making such a > decison:-) > > OH, KR related.............you can get a rotary to fit:-) > > > > Dana Overall > 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host > Richmond, KY > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" > Finish kit > Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. > http://rvflying.tripod.com > do not archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > Check out the new MSN 9 Dial-up - fast & reliable Internet access with prime > features! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=dialup/home&ST=1 > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to [email protected] > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to [email protected] please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html Just reading about the new wave of rotary engines. I just bought a Corvair engine after debating over the VW engine. I'm not sure if I can handle anything new. Just in case put up as much info as possible so that we can all review it. Stuff like the reduction unit. Can it be homemade or just purchased? Do plans exist? Thanks Ray --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
