What I bought is a stock engine with, I believe, everything stock inside
and what the seller called a "German .010 .010 crank I was going to
use to rebuild
the engine" along with it. (Plus other new parts, some from GPASC). The new
crank came in a heavy plastic bag with no evidence of its origin, so I
can't confirm what the seller said about it, but the things he said about
the other stuff in the package turned out to be true, so this may be also
(and there may be clues to determine what crank it is, for all I know).

Concerning the 1835 size, I've never wanted anything bigger than that, and
it will be fast enough for me.  The air-cooled VW is an engine designed in
the '30s to have maybe 30 hp, and the more powerful you make it the more
things start to break.  That's partly the reason the Force One hub came
into being, because the larger engines were breaking crankshafts.  So I
figured by NOT building a large engine and still using a Force One, I'd
have reliability to spare in the crank, which is a place where it's nice to
have it.

And I always wanted to build the engine myself. (And in fact I restricted
myself to planes powered by VW engines when I was looking for something to
build).  I've had experience with VWs, rebuilding a bug engine in the '70s
on a car I had then.  More recently, I pulled and rebuilt the head of my
2000 Golf GTI after breaking a timing belt, which led to the replacement of
12 of its 20 valves.  I figured doing that myself would be good practice
doing a long, complicated project and also building an aero-VW engine (and
believe me, the head of a dual-overhead-camshaft five-valves-per-cylinder
turbocharged Golf has more parts than a Type 1 engine and is far more

So the idea of buying an engine built by some company that boasts of all
kinds of modifications it made to the VW design is not only uninteresting
to me but positively repellent.  There's no way I would ever consider it,
though I might want to use some parts such as the improved Revmaster heads
if the heads on this engine have any problems.

Finally, I'd be interested in buying a stock Type 1 head that's cracked,
worn out or otherwise a junker.  I want to mill the head for two plugs per
cylinder myself, and I'd like a junk head to practice on.

Mike Taglieri

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 5:33 PM, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Mike T. said:
> This is extremely distressing if it ultimately collapses.  I just took
> > delivery of a stock VW engine that seems to be all there and has a few
> > accessories (including some by Great Plains).  But I want to add 1835
> jugs
> > and a Force One prop hub, and as far as I know at least the latter is
> made
> > by GPASC and nobody else.
> Sounds like you've got some decision making to do.  Like Mark said, if
> going to 1835, why not go to 2180 cylinders & shims and a stroker crank?
> Of course, you'll need to do some slight case milling to fit the longer
> crank throw.  Since it's a GP engine (or partly so?), it surely doesn't
> have a cast crank in it so you've got a good crank as is, but it's a
> mystery why it's not already drilled for the Force 1 hub.  You've got a
> mystery engine.  If it DOES have a cast crank . . . boat anchor.
> Mark said,
> "If you've ever seen a 4340 Scat crank (which is the
> basis for the GPASC, and maybe  the Revmaster), the fillet radii are
> very nice, as is the workmanship.  VWs broke a lot of cranks in the
> early days, and the Revmaster (who was probably first to do it) and
> GPASC hubs, paired with very robust cranks, pretty much put an end to
> it."
> VW's of both the Revmaster, Rex Taylor and GPASC models broke a lot of
> cranks before they learned to use forged cranks.  I think Steve told me
> once that Type 1 VW's from Germany always had forged cranks . . . so if
> my memory isn't playing tricks, I don't know where all the cast cranks
> came from.  Maybe licensed VW engine builders like in Brazil?
> My Force One Hub has never given me any trouble on my GP 2180 and you'd
> think by now the seal would be worn out and I'd get a little leakage . .
> . but nope.  I've never taken the hub off so maybe that's the reason the
> threaded screw backs out sometimes with some people.  Wouldn't some
> thread locker fix this for those to whom it might happen?  I suggest this
> in complete ignorance having never had the problem.
> ********************************
> I wish the best for whoever winds up owning GPASC.  When Steve and Linda
> built it there was always somebody at the other end of the phone to get
> something sent, often the same day.  And they had everything!  I hope
> whoever the new owners turn out to be take the business as seriously as
> Steve & Linda did.  Lots of history and lots of support for our kinds of
> planes disappeared when they left the scene and they are missed.
> Time and technology marches on and for someone starting fresh, I'd sure
> take a look at the Revmaster R-2300.  The thing about it that I admire so
> much is that the power, both for takeoff and cruise, is produced around
> 3000 RPM.  At faster RPM's where engines like mine produce their rated
> horsepower, the engine has to be run at 3400 - a ridiculous number
> considering all the heat produced through internal friction at that RPM..
>  Aerovee (POC) even rates theirs at 3600 if I'm not mistaken just so they
> can say their engine produces 80 HP.  Cheap trick for a cheap product.
> The GP2180 is rated at 76 HP at 3400.  The R-2300 produces 80 horsepower
> at the ideal RPM of 3900 and with that big Revmaster oil cooler, heat -
> the VW killer - seems fully tamed with this new Revmaster design.  Winter
> flying would probably require blocking off the oil cooler.
> The two things I'd change about the R-2300.  I'd put roller tappets on
> the rocker arms (or swivel feet) - (I can't believe they haven't done
> that already!  They use them on their dragsters using the same engine
> pulling 640 HP!), and I'd get rid of that Rev-Flo and put an Ellison on
> it.  Since it has dual coils for ignition and with a dead battery you
> can't hand prop it, one of these new very small lithium car starters
> would be an easy back-up to carry.   The R-2300 costs about 9K brand new
> which is about what one can properly build a Corvair for so the R-2300 is
> another very good option I thought I'd remind netters about.
> And . . . would someone explain to me why the higher-end Rotax engines
> are so expensive?  I wouldn't have one at any price, but what seems like
> blatent greed puzzles me.  They're half water/half air cooled, surrender
> and waste power by channelling it through a reduction gear, are finnicky
> in various ways and have a stack of AD's six inches high and sound like a
> weed whacker. They're a proven engine so I'm not contending they aren't a
> decent engine but considering the millions of them they've produced, both
> for SLA's and military drone applications, their development costs are
> long since amortized.  Just charging what the market will bear I guess.
> Mike
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