Hi Bob, 

Sorry to hear you didn't do your own work . . . now you don't know for
sure if the shop re-used old springs, or how concentrically they seated
the valves, etc.  Did they cut new seats?  Did they use swivel-feet on
the rockers to protect your guides?  What did the combustion chambers
look like when they took the heads off?  You can learn how well you've
been operating your engine just from the colors and thus make operational
improvements in the future if called for, or discover that you've got
some imbalance in your intakes that could use some improvement . . .
depending on what you see.    Did they use Manley valves or some no-name
dune buggy valves? Since they took the cylinders off to hone (I assume)
the barrels and put new rings, let's hope they put it all back together
with as much care as you would have taken had you done it yourself.  
Using Steve Bennett's assembly book and the KRNET archives, together with
Langford's superb Corvair assembly and operation material which is on the
net (equally applicable to the VW), there's a wealth of already existing
material to learn from.  Bob Hoover's material (he dealt specifically
with the VW) surely covers break-in procedures.  Apart from all that - if
you're someone who would rather not waste time doing research (and you
may very well have such demands on your life that you just don't have
time, understood), I'm sure someone will be along soon to offer more
informed suggestions than anything I could possibly suggest regarding
your break-in question.    If you've been running it on the ground "to
get it tuned properly", you may already be well into the break-in period,
hopefully using mineral or perhaps other oil specifically designed for
breaking in a re-built engine.  The only thing useful I can think of to
suggest is that you frequently check your valve clearances during the
first few hours of operation.      

Mike
KSEE
  

Mike
KSEE
 

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