>>>From: Whitham [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I went to my thread collection and found linen Goldchilds Nel 80/3, Nm 50/3,
which at first I thought I could use until I decided that the B meant bomuld
(cotton).  Now I am really confused.  Why the 2 numbers on the thread?  Are
linen and cotton threads numbered differently?  Please help!<<<

Can't help you with that specific thread, but yes, linen and cotton are
measured differently.  In both cases, however, the scheme is the same.  The
upper number is an indication of how many yards to a given weight (the
chosen weight is different for the two threads, which is why 80/3 linen is
different from 80/3 cotton).  Therefore, the larger the number, the thinner
the thread (more yards per weight).  

Now, that numerator refers to the size of a *single ply* of the thread, and
most threads are 2 or more ply.  Most lace threads are 2, 3, or 6 ply.  The
denominator tells you how many plies are in the thread.  If there's no
denominator, it's two-ply.  So your 80/3 is 3 plies, *each* of which is 80
yards per xxxx weight (I never remember the actual weight, because I don't
care to memorize it).  

You can use the combination of numbers to figure out equivalent threads,
within one fiber type.  Divide the numerator by the denominator, so 70/2 and
100/3 are about the same thickness (equivalent to 35/1 and 33/1) and 100/6
is about the same as 50/3.  

This info can be handy if you want to change threads.  However, if you want
to change to a different fiber, you should use one of the books about thread
thicknesses--one is by Brenda Paternoster and the other is called "Thread
and Pricking".  Can't think of the title of Brenda's or the author of the
other, but I'm sure some arachnean will chime in.  There are also
less-expensive (less-comprehensive) one-page charts sold by some lace
suppliers, like Holly Van Sciver.

One other small wrinkle is that not all thread is the same density.  Some of
this is probably tightness of twist (a fluffy thread weighs less per yard
than an equally thick thread that's all-fiber/no-air), some may be due to
impurities or the breed of cotton, etc.  Anyway, not all threads of a given
yards/weight will be exactly the same thickness, and it's thickness that
matters in lace.  So the thickness of a 70/2 cotton of one brand may be
equivalent 80/2 of another brand, or 60/2 of a third brand.  That's the
other reason the above-mentioned books come in handy.

Robin P.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com 

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