>From my previous experiments, it makes not the slightest bit of difference to the "raised-ness" of the gimp which way you pass it through. It's your good tension that does that. Because you are working on flat, the thread under the gimp takes the shortest route from pin to pin; the over thread humps up over the top of the gimp and is therefore longer. (I know that in the US the h*** word has other connotations to here, but I couldn't think of another one to describe the move as well, and "It was clean when it left the stage" as they used to say in the music halls.)
I always lift the right thread, because then I don't have to remember to do an extra twist before passing the gimp. I then do two twists after (assuming I want one twist remaining), to "close the gate" is how I describe it to my students, but the first of these is normally achieved by replacing the RH thread on the LH side. In fact whichever way you do it, the first twist lies before the gimp, the second above and below the gimp, and the third after the gimp. The important bit is making sure the "gate is shut" each side, ie the first and third twist. Of course, in Bucks, there will be more twists depending on the stitches you are coming from and going to. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
