All this talk of bobbins and winding has brought out this method again. For the newbies who haven't seen this, here is a copy of two messages from years back that may be of interest. It is most helpful when winding more than one yard per bobbin. It might come in handy some day.
There's actually two messages, and two methods described. Take your choice.
---------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 10:02:37 -0800 From: "Alice Howell" <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> Subject: [lace] Wind bobbins with a String
Greetings everyone,
The recent talk about bobbin winders brought up the subject of winding bobbins with the use of a string when talking to a new lacemaker recently. I promised I would write it up again and send it. This may help out with newer lacemakers who cannot yet afford a mechanical winder, or don't know which one they want. It is also very portable.
Winding Bobbins With a String
Take a string about 1-1/2 yards long and attach each end to something
sturdy. (I like to use the 2 arms of my recliner and pin the string to each one.)
Two sturdy chairs work, or one chair and a table leg, etc. The string
should be fairly taut, but have some give in it. A movable chair or a pin allows
adjustment to be easily made to the tautness of the string.
Start the thread on the bobbin, winding a few times until it is attached. Holding the bobbin with the head away from you, reach across the string and tuck the body of the bobbin under the string. Then twist the end of the bobbin up (to the left), over and again under the string while holding on to the head.
You should end up with a loop of the string going around the middle of the bobbin, the tail pointed at you, and the head away from you. This method will work with either midlands or continental bobbins because the tail of the bobbin hangs loose. Realize the midlands, with spangles, may feel a bit wierd as you proceed, but can easily be done. I like the string to be about 1/3 of the way from the threaded section to the tail of the bobbin. The design of the bobbin may determine where the string lies best.
Hold the bobbin with your right hand by putting two fingers on each side of the string and bending your fingers under the bobbin--sort of a cradle.
Your left hand will hold the winding thread parallel with the string. I like to have a yard or so of thread unwound from the spool so it can flow freely. By unwinding the thread a yard at a time, I can keep count how much thread is going on the bobbin.
With your right hand cupped loosely under the bobbin, push the bobbin
to the left across the string. The loop around the bobbin will make the bobbin
spin, and the thread will wind around the bobbin. Be aware that the thread
may not wind up in very neat, precise rows, but with practice you can
control it to some extent. Thread will have fewer problems unwinding if it is not neatly wound. (Believe it or not.)
When you reach the left side of the string, put your right thumb on the bobbin and hold it firmly in the right hand. Pull the bobbin back to the right side of the string without letting it turn. The string will slide around the bobbin.
When back to the right side, release your thumb and again hold the bobbin loosely with your fingers, and push it back across the string. (I guess that I take about 10 seconds a yard, and do about 3 passes across the string per yard.)
When the bobbin has enough thread on it, remove from the string and tie your half hitch.
The second bobbin of a pair may be a bit trickier. You have to unwind the total amount of thread needed, and start from the cut end. If you are needing only 1-2-3 yards, it is not much of a problem. If you need many yards, you need to develop a system of laying out the unwound yards in a manner that will allow the thread to wind freely without tangling. (I have wound up to 14 yards successfully.)
A bit of caution on midlands bobbins. The bobbins that have a spiral design along the body of the bobbin may be more difficult to wind. The winding string tends to catch in the spiral, and travel to the tail end. The string has to be repositioned frequently. Also I have found a few bobbins that have such a smooth, slick finish that the string can't get traction on them. Glass bobbins also are slick to wind. However, 95 percent of my midlands can be wound easily in this manner. Continentals are very easy.
If the string breaks, use another piece--very inexpensive to replace.
I hope this may be of help to some of you. I have yet to buy a machanical winder because the string process has worked so well for me. Please write directly if this discription is not clear on any point. I will be happy to respond.
Happy lacing, everyone!
Alice in Oregon -- where winter is coming in very wet and cool. [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Marni Harang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
Subject: [lace] winding bobbins on a string
I too use the string method to wind my bobbins, however I don't tie both ends of the string. I secure one end to a convenient knob, handle, my lace cushion whatever.
I hold the end of the winding string and the thread being wound on in my left hand.
The thread is wrapped on the bobbin a few times to secure it. The winding string is then wrapped once around the bobbin in the same direction as the thread being wound onto the bobbin. (this means that you can as easily wind z twist as s twist threads.) The tail of the winding string is held between the thumb and index finger of the left hand with the palm up. The thread being wound onto the bobbin is also held in this manner with the rest of the fingers of the left hand providing additional pressure on the threads as needed to maintain tension. The right hand is held palm down with the winding thread between the first(index) and second(middle) finger and the fingers loosely cupping the bobbin.
If the tension is right, the winding string itself will support the bobbin and all the right hand does is gently push/roll the bobbin down the winding thread. At the bottom, the right hand grasps the bobbin and slides in back up the winding string, thus preventing the wound thread from unwinding. The bobbin is then stroked down the winding string again and as many time as needed to wind sufficient thread.
It takes practice and coordination to get the stroking method smooth and the tension on the winding string and thread balanced and right, but once you have it down you can wind all sorts of bobbins- even midlands and honitons.
I use a piece of nylon monofiliment line on my work light with a knot at 12". This means that as I wind my bobbins, I can, if I choose, actually count the number of down(winding) strokes and have a good idea of exactly how much thread I am putting on the bobbin. Useful if you are trying to make a certain thread or color of thread stretch to finish a piece.
Plus I'm never more that a string away from being able to rewind bobbins if they need adjustment while I'm working. Marni J. Harang,Acton,25 miles NW of Boston MA.
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Happy lacing, Alice in Oregon -- where it was a nicer day than forecast.
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