In a message dated 8/23/04 11:54:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> One, I don't have a lot of money right now.  Two, I've never tried 
> attaching
> anything to fabric before, so the first pieces probably won't be very nice
> anyway.  Three, cheap on eBay doesn't necessarily mean low-quality (not that 
> I
> have any idea how to tell the quality of a piece of fabric in any case). 
> 
> That said, I'd try to get better fabric if I had any idea how to tell which 
> one
> that is.  It seems like just trying to buy more expensive fabric instead 
> isn't
> the best idea, so for now I'll just get some cheap stuff to practice with, 
> and
> maybe figure out the quality later. <g>
> 
> By the way, does anyone know if cross-stitch fabric is normally higher or 
> lower
> quality than other fabric?
> 

------
Weronika,  

You sound angry or frustrated with the responses you've received.  Almost all 
of us have had the problem of limited funds, especially when we were young 
like you.  We remember those years.  We are not trying to annoy you when we 
provide advice from our experience.  We are sharing what we have learned.  

In answer to your first paragraph, I recommend you buy a yard of machine-made 
lace similar to what you've made, and practice attaching it to any fabric you 
choose.  You will quickly learn what to expect when you go on to attach your 
carefully-made lace to a fabric.  It has been the experience of many that we 
keep our first laces and show them to others so they can see the progress we 
have made.  

It is difficult to determine what you mean by cross-stitch fabric.  You could 
mean  Aida, Hardanger, or an even-weave linen, such as Belfast, Cashel, etc.

Since you are in the U.S., I recommend you call Nordic Needle at 
1-800-433-4321 and request their 2004 Mail Order Catalog (it is free).  It is nice to 
have 
on hand for comparisons with what you see in stores (you can carry it with 
you when out physically shopping) or on the internet (you can have it available 
at your computer).  While you are waiting for the Catalog, go to their web 
site and take a look:

www.nordicneedle.com

This company generally offers high-quality products.  (I give them only 
"generally", because they do offer the kit from H*ll.)  Though they will sell 
retail to you, they are also wholesale suppliers to the nicer individually-owned 
needlework stores throughout the U.S.  Their original focus was Hardanger, and 
they have built the business up from there.  The owners use the products 
(though obviously not the kit from H*ll).

Another thing you must consider is that various stores carry different 
qualities of fabrics by the same manufacturer's name.  In a large store like 
W*llM*rt or chain fabric and craft stores, the quality has been watered down, and it 
becomes apparent to you immediately (if you are experienced) or later when 
you've owned a piece a while.  Cheaper fabrics tend to be heavily "starched" or 
"sized" to give them the body weight of the better quality.  You need to know 
this for future reference.  If there is a synthetic present in a fabric, it may 
yellow over time.  I have noticed pieces in lace collections where the fabric 
is yellowed, while the attached lace is white.  

When the term "cheaper" is used, it does not necessarily refer to cost, but 
to quality.  In time, you will learn to judge the "hand" of fabric.  You will 
be able to tell if it is heavily starched or sized, or whether there are 
synthetics in the fiber mix.   Whenever you are out and about, I suggest you stop 
into stores and learn about the hand of fabrics.  When I say "the hand of 
fabrics", I mean how it feels in your hand.  Your fingers are sensitive to lace 
threads, and they can become sensitive to fabrics.  Talk to the shopowners.  Ask 
questions about what you are buying - clerks in chain stores may not be 
helpful, but individual stores use the products they sell in their classes, and they 
know how the products perform.  Read the labels on the ends of the bolts on 
which the fabric is wound.  Write done the info, if you buy a sample.

Someone who really wants to make a study of this might collect something 
equivalent to "fat quarters" that quilters collect.  Label them, and keep them 
together in an organized way.  Come to think of it, this would be **a nice 
project for a lace club** to develop and make available to members.   Pre-determine 
the size so the collection of fabrics can be orderly, and put a collection 
together that everyone can refer to when they are thinking of what fabric to 
select for a project - whether it be a christening gown or heavy-duty bureau 
scarf.  Size of fabrics should be large enough so you can squeeze each piece in 
your hand.

Early home economics textbooks give wonderfull summations of the merits and 
problems presented by the use of different fabrics/fibers.  The above 
suggestion would be a nice way for modern lacemakers to update the study process.

I would like to recommend a book aimed at quilters, but useful to people 
learning to select fabrics to which they will attach laces:

Harriet Hargrave's "From Fiber to Fabric - The Essential Guide to Quiltmaking 
Textiles" was published by C&T Publishing, 1997, ISBN 1-57120-025-8, original 
cost was $30.  Love the binding of this quality book - it is hard cover with 
a rounded spine covering the spirals!

This book covers consumer expectations, from fiber to fabric, manufacturing 
processes, finishes, dimensional stability (grain).  If you love textiles in 
general, try to borrow this book through InterLibrary Loan at your local 
library!

To answer your last question, cross stitch fabric can be of the same quality 
as other fabrics.  If you are willing to pay the price, you can get almost any 
degree of quality you want in any fiber somewhere in the world.  I toured the 
Belfast Linen Mill years ago during some of the worst fighting in the 
neighborhood, and saw wonderful linens being woven.  Photography was not allowed, and 
some sections were not open to us.  They custom weave for some of the most 
unlikely customers and countries.  Why do we not have all linens available in 
the U.S.?  Thank the textile lobby for making life difficult for people who want 
quality fine needlework products.  The greatest insult has been that American 
textile companies, have tried to convince us that their products containing 
synthetics are good substitutes for the real thing.   

Weronika, there are reasons we use the products we use.  It has taken the 
majority of us - those who regularly provide answers on Arachne - years to 
accumulate experience we pass on to you for free.  We have traveled long distances 
by many means of transportation, stayed in hotels etc., paid tuition, paid 
dues, used vacation time, bought expensive reference materials and inconvenienced 
co-workers and families to learn what we pass on to you.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace & Embroidery Resource Center

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