In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Tamara P. Duvall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes >> Should I get a cushion stand? > >What you may need before you need a pillow stand is some kind of >support for the book you're using, so that you can look at it and >continue working. Folding music stands work well and are inexpensive, >though they're a bit wobbly. >
I wasn't going to chip in, as everyone else has already done so with some very good advice, but so far everyone seems to have recommended books, boxes, etc for a stand. Some pillows, particularly flat ones, do need raising for the first part of the pattern so that you can see what you are doing, and in the case of Midland bobbins at least, to allow the bobbins to tension the thread. I started off (fifteen or so years ago) with a box, or book, or bobbin case (they do have their uses!), moved to one of the TV tables that you can slant the top of and eventually bought a proper pillow stand - this I use when I'm working at home or out demonstrating. For class, one of my students came up with a brilliant idea (though it may not have been her idea to start with) and made everyone a small bean bag one Christmas. This is a rectangular bag - about 8 by 6 inches, filled (not too full) with the polystyrene beads you buy for stuffing bean bags. Light, portable, sits between pillow and table top, and you can adjust the angle of slope easily. The most important thing is that the table you are working on is the right height - by the time you put a lace pillow, of even 2-3 inch thickness, on top of a standard dining table, you will probably find the surface is too high to work on. There is no reason at all why you can't find a comfortable sofa, put your feet up, put a bean bag or cushion on your lap to provide a slight slope and work with your pillow on your lap. Do make sure your back is well supported, though. I cannot work with my Honiton pillow on my lap - I end up with stomach pains, and this is where the stand holds its own. > >> Divider pins (can I use sewing pins?) > >You can't use sewing pins; divider pins are more the size of corsage >pins, often the size of hat pins. But you won't need them for the first >half a year or so, if ever. They're used to mark sections of large >patterns, hanging big bunches of bobbins out of the way, on non-flat >pillows. I'm wondering if you are getting confused with the terminology? As Tamara explains, divider pins are used to keep stacks of bobbins out of the way - I never use them, they make too large a hole in a polystyrene pillow and that means in time, it will wear out more quickly. For general use, you need a few berry pins (the "glass" headed type) for pinning a pin cushion to your pillow, and your working and cover cloths in place - they need to be moved reasonably frequently, so having the bigger head save your finger nails. (For some reason the ones Ikea sell keep their heads better than the ones sold on circular discs!). For making the lace, you need pins that don't bend too easily, and don't rust. Traditionally these are brass, but brass pins do tarnish, and I have found that they react with the acid in the pricking card to leave turquoise stains on lace if they are left in the lace too long (another reason for only working one piece at a time!). These days, you can get stainless steel pins which are reasonably decent. Sewing pins tend to be a little too thick - and you do need to suit the pin to the type of thread and lace you are making. For torchon, in a 60 crochet cotton, the .65 thickness is fine - most would probably go for either a 30 x .60, (pins are always metric) or 26 x .60. Once you go for the finer laces, you need pins with smaller heads (or they don't sit together so well) and this is when you go down to the 26 x .50 and finer. Make sure that your pricker is of a similar, if not very slightly finer, size to your pins. Metal pin vices tend to be uncomfortable after pricking a large area, but the vice means you can change the size of needle (use a "sharp" or quilter's needle) you are pricking with. If you can get one with a wooden handle you may find it more comfortable to use. > >> Pricking card > >Any gift-box, dis-assembled and covered with transparent, coloured, >plastic film will do just fine This is another point where everyone has different views. The coloured film can be difficult to get (matt is better than shiny) and personally I don't like it. I teach my students to use proper pricking card (glazed manila) and a waterproof pen. Prick through the copy of your pattern into the card, then draw the pattern markings using a pencil. Check that you have copied correctly, and not missed any holes, then go over in waterproof pen (any moisture in the air or your fingers will transfer ordinary ink, even biro, or photocopier toner, onto your thread) and rub out the pencil marks. The pricking card doesn't shed its fibres, and normally the ink doesn't bleed into it, as some packaging card does. You save money in not needing to buy the plastic film. Do use a piece of baking parchment or waxed paper between the card and pattern when you are pricking, or dip your pricker into beeswax every so often - it will make life much easier! Don't believe a pen is waterproof unless it says so on it - some sold for lacemakers several years ago were anything but. >> cover cloth - what colour, fabric > >Anything that pleases, as long as it's big enough to cover most of the >pillow and *all* of the lace. Keeps the lace protected from sunlight, >curious cats, etc. Interesting cover cloths - with spiderwebs or group >logos - are often offered by vendors or groups. Another good reason to >join groups :) > >> working cloth - what is it? > Non-shedding, and colour-fastness are >*essential*. Likewise with what you are wearing to make the lace! The (red) jumper I have on at the moment is notorious for shedding its fibres (it is cotton, and not at all hairy - took me ages to work out the culprit!). It only takes one fibre (visible usually only with a magnifying glass) to change the colour of a small area of your lace. Don't make your pincushion from felt, for the same reason. The hackle pliers do come in useful for removing such fibres, though, when you do get some - otherwise use fine tweezers. Go for the basics that you need to start with - pillow, fabric to cover the pillow with, work and cover cloths, pins, pincushion, bobbins, thread, pricker, something to prick your pattern on (eg cork mat), pricking card, good, basic, beginner book. Look for good close up diagrams, and a style of writing you can understand. I made a mistake with the first book I bought - "Bobbin Lace for Beginners" by Amy Dawson - because I couldn't relate much of what was written to what we had been shown. Now I can distinguish that it was written with a Cluny lace bias, it is a little more use than it was when I was trying to carry on by myself. Finally, I'm not trying to put you off, but it needs to be said that not everyone takes to bobbin lace. For this reason I loan equipment to my new students until they are sure they want to continue, and buy their own equipment - there are many who have a pillow packed away in the loft or wherever. My eldest sister is an embroiderer, needlewoman, knits, sews, but could not take to bobbin lace, it did not grow fast enough for her. Some people assume that everyone should be as enthusiastic as they are - yes it is easy (once you get over the first hurdles), but not everyone takes to it. Where supplies are hard to come across, it is tempting to buy everything in one go that one might ever need (and some of us may never use), but unless you are of the type to work projects that may take weeks, (and sometimes years) to complete - to pick it up, do a bit, put it down and continue another day, rather than pick it up and have something finished in a short space of time, you may find it frustrating. Steph's beginnings of trying with improvised equipment to start with may be a good idea in your case, if you find sourcing equipment difficult. You will then have an idea if it is worth the effort. (Was this improvisation before or after seeing Gil Dye demonstrate with a biro shell improvising for a bobbin on that shawl, Steph?) -- Jane Partridge -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. 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