Dear Jeri,
Many thanks for such an informative email. Sure sounds like you do
things "properly" :)
I know that my method would be heresy to many. However, I found years
ago that neither frames nor hoops suit my style. I do indeed use the
Swiss silk gauze, but I simply do the maths first and cut it large
enough. Then I go round the edge using Fray Stop. I then commence the
petit point from the top right corner. Mine are usually portraits and
so every stitch on the gauze is filled in.
I have found that if I choose the darkest colour first - usually
black, or maybe a navy blue - then these stitches act like a book mark.
I DO use highlighter pens, but as accidents can indeed happen I am
religious about where I put them. I have found that for me, I will
colour those black stitches say in blue on the chart, then I only use
one other colour for all the rest. My eyes can cope with that.
As I'm working top right to bottom left, there is very little
grubbiness caused in the working. I even roll the fabric into a
cylinder shape in my left hand as I go. Then when the work is
finished, I wash it gently and block it to dry. Works perfectly for me.
David in Ballarat
If the chart is not colored, and has just symbols - I use a colored pencil
(erasable) to color in the most dominant color in the area being
worked. That
way, all the zigs, zags and openings made by that color can be seen. It
makes it easier to see to fill in the stitches in other colors, or
if a counting
error has occurred. I do not prestitch this dominant area, as it would
result in puckers in embroidery and difficulty fitting in the other
colors. I
stitch the rows in order, starting in center row and all below it, then turn
stretcher and chart and work all the rows in top half. I don't use
highlighter
pens near needlework. Accidents happen!
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