The four and a half hour coach journey from Dubrovnik to Split was full of
interest.  The road hugged the indented coastline, sometimes skirting a beach,
at others cutting through a mountain pass to cross a headland.  Each village
had a Marina full of power boats and yatchts - evidently a tourist paradise.
Split is a large and busy port and our hotel was further up the coast in a
small town.  At first, we viewed the taxi meter with horror, but the town of
Trogir was a jewel, far nicer than Dubrovnik and our small hotel overlooked
the bustling harbour.  Once again a Mediaeval city with most of the walls
standing to encase a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and paved streets.

However, there was no lace in the little shops, here they sold souvenirs,
shells and sponges;  but in the thriving market, full of fruit and vegetables
and stalls of vibrant flowers, we found crochet mats and edgings on cutwork
and embroidery, obviously imported from China.  It was only in the churches
that we found historic cutwork and crochet edgings on the white altar cloths
draped above the coloured stone mosaic altars.  Cutwork is a traditional
embroidery carft in the areas of central and eastern Europe.  Luckily Pauline
discovered a very decorative crochet jacket.  Little, coloured circular motifs
were linked together by chain-stitch bars in a dark thread embelished with
tiny beads.  I managed to persuade her that it was just the thing to go over a
dark dress and wear to a Lace Convention.  The next day we decided to go back
to Split to visit the old town built among the Roman remains of the Emperor
Diocletian's 3rd century Palace.  The Ethnographic Mueum was a must for it
contained ethnic costume, textiles and lace.

Angela

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