There was a good local bus service from Trogir to Split, apart from the hard
wooden seats and the fact that frequent road-works made for a bumpy ride.
The old town, situated  in the harbour area, has evolved over many centuries
from the Roman remains of the Emperor Diocletian's Palace, built in the 3rd
century AD.  Every now and then, Roman pillars sprout up in odd places,
tombstones with Latin inscriptions line the narrow streets, a Church sits
inside the ruins of a Roman temple.

Our two Guide books and the Infrmation Office assured us that the Ethnograpic
Museum would be open.  However, the glass doors were fast shut, though Pauline
observed a coat and handbag on a chair near the reception desk.  So I banged
on the door.  I banged on the door at intervals for about five minutes, and
eventually, a lady curator came and let us in.  The museum was delightful.
Ethnic costumes, from all over Croatia, were tastefully displayed in glass
show-cases.  Wooden carvings and furniture, woven carpets and tapestries,
silver and metal-work.  Even better, a room devoted to lace.  Pag Lace,
Lepoglava Lace and netted lace.  Large-scale illustrations of the lace lined
the walls, showing the thread construction and I was able to photograph
anything I liked, with no restrictions on flash.

Soon we were joined by a guided tour of French people - although they left
long before we had finished.  Later, we learned that some museums only open
for booked Group Tours.  The Curator who let us in, must have though we were
the vanguard of the French Tour - otherwise, I am quite sure we would not have
got in!

Angela



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