Our next bus journey took us north to Zadar.  Another delightful coastal ride
and an equally fascinating town to explore.  Once again an old city built on
an around Roman ruins.  Those Romans certainly had a busy time along the
Adriatic coast!   As before, the Ethnographic Museum was closed, awaiting
restoration, but we discovered that a Convent Treasury would be open the
following day at 10.00 am.  The ruins of the Roman Forum alongside the Convent
were lined with market stalls selling tourist souvenirs and surprise,
surprise, a piece of Romanian Point lace amongst the crochet.  This large,
very decorative oval mat was selling for 70 pounds sterling, about 130 dollars
or so,  prices similar to mats sold in Romania.  I could not afford this, so
Pauline distracted the saleswoman while I took a surreptitious picture with
the tele-photo lens.

Suddenly the Convent doors were open and we both rushed to buy our tickets.
Religious paintings alternated with glass cases full of ornate silver-encased
relics of the various Catholic Saints.   Upstairs carved wooden figures were
almost life-size.  Then we saw the religious vestments - embroidery at last!
Gold thread-work encrusted damask silk together with gold braids.  Even
better, a display cabinet of beautiful antique Milanese Lace.  We were quite
extatic when we found pull-out drawers with more lace, some Flanders, but
mainly Milanese.  We spent a long time discussing and examining the pieces.

In the corner, a nun who had been sitting as a steward, came over, and asked
in excellent English if we were interested in lace.  We told her we were both
lace-makers.  She was so pleased as she herself had started to make
bobbin-lace.   Then she told us the story of the lace, and how it had been
rescued for posterity.

Next time - Sister Joan's Story.

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