Hallo to all,

hi Jane, that idea of handing down the washing instructions is a real marvelous idea
i think it might be even a perfect part of the design
why not embroider the washing instructions on the gown?
I think it is a real good idea
and a modern touch to the total work

besides the problem of linnen or cotton
you can always choose for a not 100% pure linnen or cotton
if you whoose a halfmix you can overcome sometimes the problems of
shrinking or deforming, that is in the first place the reason why they began making
mixes of materials in the "old-days"
plus if you take a mixed thread of linnen and other materials
you have less and less nobs of "horrifying"linnen structures
...

francis


Jane Partridge schreef:
In message <654178.80006...@web51103.mail.re2.yahoo.com>, Dona Bushong <dmbush...@yahoo.com> writes
My first question concerns the thread. The pattern calls for Egyptian Cotton 80/2. As I said though, I'm putting this on linen. Does one usually mix
fibers for the lace and fabric?   I know from knitting and spinning that
mixing of fibers can give different results when it comes to laundering. And as I hope this will get passed down from my daughters to their children, will the different fibers age differently?

I'm working a Bucks piece (a one-off, of my own design) at the moment and using linen thread which is at the thick end of comfortable for the grid - when I hit a slub it is hard going. (Yes, I know, I could have used a larger grid but I want a denser effect on this one, I also have reasons for the thread choice!). The particular thread (Texere's Galway Linen) behaves the same as DMC Broder Machine - untwists with the movement of the bobbins so I have to keep a constant watch that the threads are not about to fall apart on me (which has happened a couple of times).

I personally prefer to use a glazed cotton for Bucks, but find the William Hall 80/2 cotton produces a good result without the untwisting problem.

As a weaver, you will know that there is a difference in the "handle" of the finished lace between lace and linen - and the same will go for the robe itself. The amount of drape and creasing you want may be a deciding factor between the two fabrics. If the robe is likely to be used in a hot climate, then fine linen may be a good choice, but cotton fabric may be a lot easier to care for and may give a nicer feel against the baby's skin.

Because you cannot expect to be there when your gr.gr.gr.gr grandchildren are using the robe, I would go for a match between fabric and lace threads, to make washing/care as easy as possible for someone who may not have our knowledge, and would definitely not add the hassle of having to remove the lace from the robe before washing, then put it back, to the schedule of a busy new mother who may not be the best of needlewomen! Handing down washing instructions with the robe is a good idea, as long as it is kept up to date with the availability of washing products over the next hundred-or-so years.

We have two robes - one made from my mother-in-law's (cotton) wedding dress, worn by my husband and eldest daughter, and a smocked silk robe and bonnet I made for my younger daughter (before I started making lace).

As for the effect of the gimp round the honeycomb, without seeing the pattern, I would work a small sample first, looking at the effect of doubling and stop-start, and decide which looks best. Double would at least mean that the threads are continuous, and less likely to come astray over the washings to come!
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