From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [lace] help to learn technique

In response, it is my understanding, although I could easily be wrong, that in
the time when lace was made professionally, a new pattern would be taught,

In the past lace workers were not 'taught' a pattern.  They referred to
'learning' a piece of lace but meant interpreting a pricking, working out the
best and most time efficient way of making it. Then they would go ahead and
make it by the yard. In some cases pattern drafts were produced by specialist
designers then prickings were made and distributed by the lace dealers to the
lacemakers and the lacemaker would have to interpret it herself. You only have
to look throught the 'Lace Dealer's Pattern Book' available from Luton Museum
to see how varied the interpretations can be. There are also Bedfordshire and
Bucks point prickings that we now consider were produced for competition
purposes, possibly  the judges of the competitions were not lacemakers. The
arrangement of pins required for these prickings to be worked successfully
would look strange to a non-lacemker hence the competitor arranged them in the
way she thought gave her the best chance of winning. I have seen at least 3
interpretations of one Bucks point pricking in which there are some very
unusual goings on in order to make it.

The method of teaching using coloured diagrams was devised following the 2nd
World War in an effort to enable those starving in continental Europe to learn
to make lace as fast as possible in order to earn a living.  This method
proved excellent for this purpose i.e. producing yardage from a very limited
number of prickings, but it does not teach you how to look at a pricking and
interpret it. This is can be accomplished by starting with simple patterns and
progressing slowly, introducing only 2 or 3 new techniques in each new piece
and working each until you are comfortable with making the new techniques
without referring to any books or diagrams and can recognise how and where
they are used. A lace worker would expect her student to make a yard of each
design. As you say, after producing a long piece you now understand it. There
are plenty of books now available that describe how and where different
techniques are used these will help you understand your lace better than using
coloured route maps.  Learning to 'read' a pricking, i.e. how to look at a
pricking and work from it, is not a quick fix. That's where the coloured route
maps come in.

Happy lacemaking

Alex

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