Hello All! My friend, who is a member of Pomegranate Guild, owns a book by Ita Aber in which there is a short reference to the technique. While she was reading to me, I was taking notes! Spanier arbeit/shpanyer arbet was used for neck bands for prayer shawls & chest bibs for weddings. It's a combination of weaving & embroidery (??) using silver or gold over a cotton cord. The origin may be Russian with work coming from Radziwill & another area (begins with a B??), later being made in Galicia. I would like to have a better understanding of how the technique evolved because there seems to be a secular aspect (ethnic dress) as well as a sacred aspect (Judaism). Another interesting point is the equipment used to make the metallic cording seems to be of two types based on the photos I've seen. One item is a drum shaped device, sort of like a lacemaking pillow from Queyras. The other looks like a Honiton pillow i.e. domed. In each case, there is an additional piece of eq! uipment that stands nearby, sort of like a braiding stand or bobbin rack, to manage the metal & tension the cotton cords. In yet another picture, the pillow is more flat, like a cookie pillow, but no additional stand was present. Working with metals is a squirrely business so keeping the silver/gold bands unkinked is important. The wood spools used for metals in goldwork & Japanese embroidery are called koma & serve the same purpose. I'm interested in learning how embroidery is related to this technique so hope the discussion continues as more info becomes available. Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Palm Beach Gardens, FL, USA
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