Dear Pene,

I have just returned from Paris and it is singularly devoid of  lace. This
seems counter-intuitive, doesn't it?

There is none on display at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. The  Mode Museum
occupies the same building as the Musee des Arst Decoratifs, but it  has
adopted the model of only having special theme exhibits, no permanent
collection on display. The current theme exhibit is about a modern designer,
so
while interesting to people who are not specifically looking for lace, it is a
 disappointment if you are.

There is none in the Cluny museum despite the story about how  the very
name Cluny devolves from lace at the Cluny museum. Ditto the  Orsay, although
their decorative arts were of better quality than the Musee des  Arts
Decoratifs, making us wish we hadn't wasted our time by going to there  first,
hoping for lace.

In response to my query about lace in Paris that I posted  before my trip,
the leads I got were outside of Paris, one being a small museum  in
Chantilly which is relatively near Paris. My trip also included Normandy
where
there are quite a few lace museums, and sights many of which are included  in
La
Route des Dentelles Normandes, which appears to be a listing of them made
by very astute tourism officials, also described in a book La Route des
Dentelles Normandes by Mick Fouriscot.

My one regret is that I did not force my poor husband,  after treking from
one lace museum to another on a relentless lace  tour through Normandy, to
accompany me to the Musee National de la Renaissance  Chateau d'Ecouen, like
Chantilly, also on the outskirts of Paris. The website  claims that it has
the Renaissance objects originally in the Cluny Museum. I  think that the
reason I didn't decide to risk my marriage on a visit there was  that I
detected a lack of commitment on the part of the museum to lace. It  seemed
more
interested in its other decorative arts such as furniture, ceramics,  silver,
stained glass and painted fireplaces. However, now that I am reviewing  the
website I see that they opened their Salle de Tissus, after 10 years of
closure,  June 18th, a week before I was in Paris.

http://www.musee-renaissance.fr/actualite/salle-des-tissus

Fermée au  public depuis 2004, la salle des tissus, située au dernier étage
du  pavillon nord ouest du château d'Ecouen, permet de présenter les
collections  textiles par roulement. En effet, très sensibles à la lumière,
ces
oeuvres ne  supportent pas d'être exposées trop longtemps.
Après avoir avoir valorisé les broderies  liturgiques, les broderies au
petit point et les dentelles, la  salle des tissus rouvrira en juin 2014 avec
une présentation thématique  sur les étoffes d'ameublement.
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If my rusty French is correct it  seems that they are presenting, lace (les
dentelles) although their first big  exhibit is about materials used in
furnishing. Perhaps, though, it is like the  Mode Museum, and is only
presenting thematic exhibits, in this case, upholstery  fabric.

Another clue that an important lace  collection may be at the Chateau
d'Ecouen is a book published by the museum in  1992, by Anne Kraatz, Les
Dentelles, which seems to be a catalogue of its lace  holdings, or possibly of
an
exhibit. As it is totally in French it is not clear  to me which.

Perhaps Pene, or someone else would  like to check out the Chateau d'Ecouen
and see if the room of textiles has  opened and if there is any lace on
display. Ideally, this would result in an  article for the Bulletin :-)

Devon

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