Hi Vicki:

Way way back, the cottons used in England were imported from India and the
Middle East. Some cottons came from a place called Calicut (in India). Others
came from a place called Mosul (now in Iraq). And that’s where we get the
words “calico” and “muslin” from. Originally, they were just words
that meant “cotton fabric”, that came from one place or the other.

Reaching way, way back to my university training in linguistics–sometimes
when a language has two words that mean essentially the same thing, one takes
on a different meaning, because you don’t need to have both words in use. I
suspect that in the U.S. there was a fad for “printed calico” and that
eventually the word “printed” was dropped and the word calico came to mean
the print as well as the underlying fabric. That’s quite a common linguistic
process, but it’s localized - and apparently didn’t happen in England.

Regarding muslin fabric, it is interesting that until quite recently the word
did not refer to one particular weight or weave of cotton. I have found a
quote from a fashion magazine from the Regency era (I throw this in for the
person who is giving a talk on Lace to the Jane Austen Society), that says
something along the lines of “it’s time to get out your winter weight
muslins”, indicating that the word muslin at that time was still a general
word for a plain-woven cotton fabric, that could come in different weights.
Not all muslin was the sheer fabric people keep saying it was.

Hope this helps.

Adele
West Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)



> For whatever reason, in the US, ‘calico’ describes printed cotton fabric
such as one uses in patchwork quilting, whereas ‘muslin’ in the US is a
somewhat coarse (usually) unbleached cotton, similar to what is known as
‘calico’ in the UK. What is known as ‘muslin’ in the UK is known as
cheesecloth or gauze in the US. I stumbled upon this discrepancy some years
ago, but have no explanation as to how it developed. Does anyone?

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