Devon
I don't know the name for the kind of lace you describe, but I can tell a
story. Back in the 1980s I went through a period of going to the textile
department of the Art Institute of Chicago, nearly every week, for most of a
year. One time they included in the laces they let me study was a piece that
looked like continuous Valenciennes in its design. But when I looked at the
back I saw it was a part lace, with lumps and knots at the end of motifs,
and knots where the ground was sewn out onto the cloth. I told them "this is
not Valenciennes, your ID is wrong". They kept insisting it was
Valenciennes. I kept insisting that the structure was not Valenciennes
structure. We never had a meeting of the minds. It took me some years before
I realized that they were naming the lace based on where they thought it was
made, with no reference whatsoever to the structure. But myself, as a lace
MAKER, structure was far more important that geographical origin.

Your note is the first time I've come across a mention of this type of lace,
with a time component tacked on. Mid 19th century is very interesting. I
think the lace we commonly refer to as Valenciennes, the Val style, dates
from the end of the 19th and early 20th c. I am not sure that any 18th c Val
looked like the Val we usually think of. Lace was made there, but it used a
great variety of grounds, not the 4 strand ground that we think of as Val.
That latter ground seems to be attached to the late 19th ce-early 20th
version.

There is a ground used in Binche (which includes 18th c Val) that has 2
strands per leg with a cloth crossing. This strip has several variants that
can be worked on the "little snowflake" grid.
http://lynxlace.com/images/lace808.JPG 

Lorelei

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
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Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 11:20 AM
To: 'Arachne reply' <[email protected]>
Subject: [lace] Valenciennes de Gand, but not quite...

I am engaged in a cataloguing project 

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