I would be interested in joining the work group on S and Z bobbins and
winding bobbins.
In 2010 I wrote a small book on the structure of threads for lace.
Jeri reviewed it on Arachne at the time.
This is a fascinating, sometimes difficult and important topic not
generally understood.
The amount of twist in the thread is crucial.
* If it is too tightly twisted the thread may be difficult to work
with (it curls up on itself) and the resulting lace/textile tight
and undesirable.
* If is not twisted enough the thread lacks strength and may break.
The direction of twist is often changed in the process working - this
is usually the crucial point rather than the direction of twist is in
the first place.
My book covered several aspects.
I it gave the usual diagrams of S and Z along with cabled thread.
2 it looked at the*direction of twist of the threads used for lace
today*. It included the information in Brenda Paternoster's book and
what I saw when I looked at the thread collection of a lacemaker and
what was being sold at the moment here.
The bobbin lace threads varied a good deal - 2S 2Z 3S and 3Z.
Even *within a particular brand and size of thread some spools were S
and others were Z finished *
For example Kantklosgaren Egyptisch Katoen No 31 included some which
were 2S and others 2Z
Also Presencia Finca Bollilos No 80 had some 3Z and also 3S.
There is a one A4 page listing the threads and the direction of twist.
3Â I showed how most Z finished crochet thread overtwists in the process
of working.
4 When I crocheted test samples with a range of crochet threads of
similar size but different structures (3S 3Z 2S and 2S/3Z) there was
little effect of the direction of twist. *However I avoided any change
in the amount of twist by working with a short length of thread and
taking the thread off the side of the ball.*
5 diagrams of what happened to the amount of thread with twisted ribbon
on a spool when
a taken off the side of the spool (no change)
b taken off the top or bottom of the spool (either an increase or decrease)
(I found this twisted ribbon way of illustration used by Jean Leader to
be very good)
6 I wondered why Z finished threads came on the scene. The old laces
were made with S-finished thread (the traditional situation with linen
becauseof the particular properties of the linen fibres). Rosemary
Shepherd had advised the use of S-finished thread for bobbin lace.
I found a book chapter written by Philip Sykas which mentioned the
change from SÂ to Z finish in sewing thread, possibly towards the end of
the 1800s. It was done to overcome the untwisting and breaking of the
needle thread in certain sewing machines (among other things). The use
of Z finished thread is essential in modern sewing machines. (Philip
Sykas is an experienced and well respected textile expert at Manchester
Metropolitan University)
I suggested that the change in lace thread followed the change in the
sewing thread.
Sewing thread is a huge market whereas that for lace thread is much much
smaller.
My self published book /Structure of threads for lace/ is still
available from me for $A12 plus postage. See my webpage
www.crochethistory.com/books.
Lacis (www.lacis.com) also stocks it at a rather high price.
There is a lot of detail in this post but it seems necessary
Barbara Ballantyne
in sunny Sydney, Australia
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